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Deja Vu 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Gordon Douglass, Frank Ray, Tad Swarner and Gary Olsen, 1988
Page Views: 2,156
Submitted By: Charles Konopa on Sep 10, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Deja Vu. After bolt 8, angle towards the crack to...

Park your car off of the main canyon road.


A great sport route on the sunny side of tower 2 that starts on the eastern part of the flat area. Two big boulders and some pine trees give the belayer shade. Climb up a crack, putting a cool lieback in between the first and second bolts and continue up fun rock. At bolt number 8, angle towards the crack to your LEFT. Ignore the two bolts toward your right. I did this and found a dead end 20 feet below some other route's anchors. After having followed the correct crack straight up, pull over the bulge on some thin holds and side pulls; you will now see the chain anchors for the first time, slightly off to your right. Use at least a 60 meter rope. Have your belayer tie into the other end. A 60 meter rope will leave you and your belayer on your tip-toes to untie. A 59 meter rope will leave you one and a half feet short.


12 bolts and then a 2 chain anchor


Left of Insane in the Brain.

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By tenesmus
Sep 14, 2005

Fun route - makes a nice warmup for Medussa and going into the cave.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 18, 2006

This is a really fun route as is the newer one to the right of it. Anyone now the name of that one? I'd say its about the same grade.
By Duncan Murray
From: Salt Lake City
Jan 26, 2007

Whiskey and Weed Power, 5.11a***
By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Jun 17, 2007

good route, short crux, felt easy for the grade. There are 3 routes on the wall, deja vu is on the left, an .11b/c in the middle, .11b on the right (if deja vu is .11a, the right hand route is 11b, I'd say). Get Greg's topo at IME for all the new routes in the area, they've done a lot! The middle route is also really good, and even pumpier than the other two. Still loose rock on deja vu, I knocked a big one off with my foot without even realizing it, and I'm usually pretty careful on the hellgate stuff. Hopefully that was the last of it, since the whole route seemed to have good rock.
By Luke Douglas
Oct 12, 2008

Classic Hellgate.
By Jerome Sharpe
From: Wanship, UT
Aug 14, 2011

To clarify: From left to right:

DejaVu, 5.11a

Insane in the Brian, 5.11b/c

Whiskey and Weed Power, 5.11b
By zak
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 6, 2011

A .75 camalot is useful before the 1st bolt
By Crag Turkey
From: Holladay, UT
Aug 2, 2016

If you are using a .75 before the first bolt you may be missing it. The first bolt blends into the lower black wall to the left of the crack and is easy to miss. My buddy would have climbed past it if I didn't point it out when he was head level with it. while a .5-.75 could back up the one move to this bolt, I don't think it is really necessary if you are comfortable with Sport 10s.

Feeling strong and wanting to break into the 11 grade? give this one a go, pretty cruiser for an 11 but you will still need to work for this "popular" climb. I guess the nice thing about the reality of the ruckman description of it as popular, is that the climb is pretty dang clean, (at least the day I was on it) good friction and no loose rocks. As mentioned above also seems like a good warm up/prep for stronger climbers wanting to send some of the more thuggy 11's at hellgate.

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