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The Wicked Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cryptic Egyptian S 
Deity S 
F.U.C.K. S 
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 
Get Shorty S 
Magnetar S 
Planet X S 
Quick Tick Egyptian S 
Sexy Beast S 
Shades S 
Skyline Fire Dance S 
Slice of Life S 
Tombraider S 
Zulu S 

Deity 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Kurt Smith
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 8, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

This 1/2 route variation to "Get Shorty" makes for a worthy 13a if you're looking for big pulls on relatively good holds through steep rock.

Start off with a short boulder problem to easier climbing through good holds and marginal rock for a few bolts. Continue up with big pulls between good holds with ever increasing difficulty to the crux. Pull a few powerful moves, and reach jugs to clip the anchor. If you want 13b credit, continue up through cobwebs and some blocks that look like they are held on by cobwebs to finish below the roof, without any anchors.

This would probably deserve 3 stars if the rock were a bit better, a bit less damp, a bit more natural, and a bit less glue. However, despite all that, the climbing is quite fun.

Location 

This climbs the first half of "Get Shorty". There is a red-tagged project to the left and "Planet X" is to the right.

Protection 

Bolts to the 1st set of anchors, which generally has fixed draws.


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