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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2007

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This stankfest is one of the few options for a 'warmup' on the sunny side. To be blunt there really aren't any good warmups on the Sunny Side, unless your idea of a warmup is 5.11. If you come to the crag and get on this route first, please don't leave until you've tried some of the other routes. It does get better than this!

Anyway, the route begins up a usually dirty slab, up to a 2 foot roof. Surmount the roof on good, though dirty holds. Once above the roof, your best bet is to traverse up and left to the awkward dihedral/chimney thing, and lean out right to clip the bolts. It may be possible to follow the bolt line more directly, but it would be much more difficult. (This is supposed to be a warmup after all!)


Second route from the right, on dark grey rock.



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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 15, 2010

This route is not a good option for someone at their limit on 5.10+. It only has 5 bolts and could use at least one more going over the bulge. It is not to bad to climb straight up to the 4th bolt on this and then move to the corner for a move or two before the flake at the top which is not really awkward. I could see climbing the whole corner as jacked since it would be almost impossible to clip the 4th bolt where you are already looking a pretty huge fall in the first place.

Needless to say you start the crux of this route when the 3rd bolt is already below your feet and you are going over a bulge so the potential is there to hit the wall below pretty hard.

A fun and clean route otherwise and probably the best warm up for those looking to climb the 5.12-'s on this wall.
By Brototype Winkler
From: The Bay Area
Jan 17, 2012

Climbed this route yesterday and thought that it was a fantastic warm-up for the cliff. I didn't fine the route dirty at all and the movement was fun and varied. While it's not quite as long as some of the other routes on the sunny side it's sustained and doesn't really let up until the last bolt. Fun route!

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