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Defrocked Direct Start 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Dave DesChamps'96
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 697
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 15, 2006

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This is a fun offwidth, chimney, hand crack. The first 15 feet are the crux then it gradually gets easier. The R section is quite a bit easier but you don't want to fall. Move right at top of crack then a thin 5.8R move gets you into an easy chimney. A long sling for a chockstone or #5 Camalot would allow you to get pro in the back. According to Dave the 2 pitch direct start 1) climbs up to a good ledge and belays. 2) Follows a crack up and right and belays above an oak tree in the major weakness. This is where it joins the route Defrocked. Defrocked starts to the left of Coati Corner and in two pitches heads past this second oak and belays. It then continues up somehow and crosses Warpaint using the first bolt on the fourth pitch to traverse all the way left to the major corner system which is then climbed in two pitches to the anchors at the top of Warpaint. Hope Dave will put this and his other routes on Mountain Project so people can repeat them or not mistakenly drill them up


Thirty feet above the start of Warpaint. It is possible to rap after one pitch to the start with a double rope rap from the anchors at the top of Warpaint's first pitch.


Double set of cams to #4. We slid one #4 up for 20 feet or so leaving great gear deeper in the crack. We could have left the four but we thought we might need it higher up.

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