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Deficit Disorder 

Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C [details]
FA: das bpc
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: j.jaeger on Oct 12, 2009

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Start on the left hand crimp and right hand undercling/sidepull as for 'Recession Proof', climb up and into 'Return to Squiggles'. Was a bit more taxing for me than Recession.


The landing is fairly flat, and the block is fairly small but lends itself to explosive back flaps down to the rocks. A few pads would do it. More, and you don't need to spot. You can just watch and laugh, the way it should be.

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By Wade
Oct 24, 2009
rating: V8- 7B

So, this problem starts one move in from the Manhattan Project Problem but goes up the jugs? If so, I would like to suggest V8.
By j.jaeger
Oct 31, 2009

No, Wader: starts the same as Recession Proof and then climbs Return to Squiggles, exactly as those climbs are described on this site.
By Andrew Vojslavek
Nov 7, 2009

This seems like a logical variation JJ. Isnt the start of RP the crux? So RP crux into return to squiggles crux seems pretty straight forward. Not sure how Wade's V8 suggestion makes any sense. This feels much harder then the Manhattan Project, just my 2 cents.
By Wade
Nov 17, 2009
rating: V8- 7B

Andrew, the Manhattan Project goes further out left, I made sure this wasn't the same problem as Deficit Disorder. Not like it really matters anyways, because most of the boulder problems on this boulder were done 10 years ago, except R.P.
By Andrew Vojslavek
Nov 17, 2009

Wade, I think the sentiment that everything was done ten years ago is most probably accurate.

However, I do read, and realize your line goes further left. That was never what I was trying to understand. I guess there is a large miscommunication happening somewhere, not sure how though.

By j.jaeger
Nov 17, 2009

Here's a video of RP and Deficit Disorder with a little parody thrown in the beginning:

That should clear up any confusion.

I did Manhattan Project after Deficit Disorder and felt they were both about the same grade. The moves on Deficit are more powerful for me, but the tick-tack transition sequence of Manhattan Project was extremely pumpy.

If one must resort to the beta shown in the photos for Return to Squiggles on this site, I'd expect that Deficit Disorder would be the hardest variation on the block by a large margin. However, I was able to finagle easier foot beta, so I still think 9+ is about right.


Someone go find a new block in Clear Creek for everyone to play with. We are stagnating.

Otherwise, I would suggest exploding the crux sections of Shine, Prime Evil, etc off the cliffs and tucking them under the Nomad Cave for new bouldering, sheltered from the snow and rain.

Who can hook this up?
By Wade
Nov 18, 2009
rating: V8- 7B

Ok JJ, checked out the video, apparently the Manhattan Project is a FA and goes way further left, about 12 feet then to the top. But whatever, it's just bouldering. Hey, I got a idea, JJ! You can get some endurance and just climb the 5.14s at the Primo Wall. Cheers WD
By Jobot
Nov 19, 2009

Can't we all just get along... Props to Wade and Justin for adding cool new editions to the bloc. However, Wade, put your money where your mouth is, where's that video you promised of M.P. or "Death Proof" for that matter? Besides M.P. is just a "stand" start anyway, the real "gem" would be to start on the jug of Pink Squiggs and down climb the moves on R.P. and link them into Seeing Eye Bitch... Any takers? Jobot.
By j.jaeger
Nov 19, 2009

Word. I'm confused, though. No one said Manhattan Project wasn't an FA. Your description was good on that one. I was only pointing out that the "line" I did started the same as RP and finished the same as Seeing Squiggles, which itself off-routes the jugs that you mentioned in your comment. I think we are on the same page. I also climbed Manhattan Project after you posted it and enjoyed it.

It may soon get to the point where I need to try some more routes. I'm less worried about the endurance and more worried about my absolutely retarded and dangerous rope handling when I'm on lead. Z-clipping, back clipping, failed clipping with tons of slack, dangerous route cleaning efforts, winding the rope around my legs and torso, and other mental hazards have always made taking a 5 foot sport climbing fall more perilous for me than taking a 15 foot bouldering fall!
By Andrew Vojslavek
Nov 22, 2009

Very confused, are well all having the same conversation? I thought so... guess not. Both MP and DD are logical and different. yes? YES! Are they both 2 star contrivances? yes? Yes!

What am I missing? Go climb, because it is much better than bowling.

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