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Defenseless Betty 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kadie Johnston
Page Views: 4,952
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Sep 1, 2001

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Finishing the first roof. Defenseless Betty (5.12a...


Defenseless Betty is another great Project Wall route. Stiff for the grade, it is all of 11d. Work up through the overhang just left of Hang 'Em High, climbing through the low roofs. Finish up the steep groove on great stone. It has technical moves to the end.


11 bolts to lower off.

Photos of Defenseless Betty Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Over the roof and up the gray steak to the chains....
Over the roof and up the gray steak to the chains....

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By Fred Vanden Bergh
Jul 25, 2002

There's plenty of thought provoking climbing on this route. A strenuous crux low down through the overhang is deceptively pumpy, then the crux high is very tricky. It took me several tries to riddle it out...and, afterwards, comparing notes with a "local", I don't think the sequence I used is very popular! In any case, this route was incredibly fun, probably the most enjoyable of the 11's (all good) on the wall (though, there was some talk of it being rated 12a in the new?!? book, soon to come out...). Highly recommended!
By richard magill
Sep 16, 2002

A totally great line - one of the best sport routes I've ever done at this grade. The climbing is super-continuous, steep, and very engaging. It felt like a sandbag at 11d.

For what its worth, the new Dave Pegg guide ("Western Sloper") gives this route a 12a rating.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 14, 2013

Rebolted this last summer with Fixe glue-ins from the ASCA and replaced all of the old nylon tat with fresh stainless links, ClimbTech permadraws and steel biners.
By MichaelAllen
Jun 17, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fantastic line...steep and pumpy. I agree with the new book - it's 12a, not 11d.

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