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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don McGlone, Joel Petrino 2011
Page Views: 904
Submitted By: Raiden on Aug 21, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: To the right of Banjolero - a nice, gentle climb w...


Climb just right of a crack using face holds and and the crack to make it to a bulging feature just before the anchors. This route can be climbed on gear.


Right of Banjolero and left of Jingus Khan, this route stays right of a crack feature.


~5 bolts

Photos of Deeznuts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: five bolts up, approaching the chains
five bolts up, approaching the chains

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By Dan Horseman
Oct 20, 2016

I believe the guidebook says 6 bolts, but it is only 5. This means that after the 5th bolt (which you can see from ground) it is a tad runout to the chains, which includes pulling a slightly "heady" move. Chill for climbers who are confident at that level, not great for the beginner 5.8 leader.
By Jackie LeBrun
Apr 18, 2017

Completely agree with Dan. 5 bolts, not 6, but it's never bad to bring an extra.
This was my first 5.8 on lead and it was definitely a spooky one, especially feeling run out at the end on a route without SUPER awesome hands at the chains. There might be a longer wait, but if you're new to lead and want to climb a 5.8, hop on Boilerplate first.

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