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Deep Lichen 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, Kevin Bein
Page Views: 311
Submitted By: Andy Weinmann on Aug 10, 2015

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About midway up Deep Lichen.


I'm focusing on only P2 of this climb as the Williams guide doesn't recommend P1. This is a good option if the other classics on Arrow wall are occupied or you're looking for a new challenge up there. Be solid at the grade and comfortable on borderline R terrain at 5.6/7; the crux is on good gear.

(P1 starts by the Red Pillar block and works up the right side of the pillar and then the steep white face above past small overhangs and a small right-facing corner. Not recommended. Ascend to the GT ledge another way!)

From the start on the GT ledge, move up past a few blocks (possible gear) to gain the face and a cam placement. Move up the slab on 5.6/5.7 terrain that is PG13/R and gain a stance at your next placement. Make fun, balancey moves to continue up and move into the small alcove/pod stance. Plug some good gear here (small nut, green C3) then work up the steep slabby face (crux...reachy) to easier terrain and the top. Walk back and make an anchor on a tree.

Descend via the Arrow or Annie Oh! bolt lines to the north (climbers' right).


On the GT ledge, locate a clean streak through the lichen to the right of Snake's P2 (which is the big corner) and left of Red Pillar P2. There's a small cluster of trees on the left end of the GT Ledge that make for a good anchor.


Nothing larger than 2". C3s and small nuts helpful.

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By Eric Lutz
Oct 7, 2015

On P2 of this route I learned that bringing a guidebook is important.... because we thought we were on P2 of Red Pillar!
By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Oct 16, 2015

Pitch 1 is covered with lichen and not climbable in its current condition. Unfortunate; it's nice face climbing.
By Phil Tatti
From: Saratoga Springs
Jun 6, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Got on this thinking it was the second pitch of Red Pillar as well. It didn't take me long to realize that this definitely wasn't 5.5. I'd say that the first half is probably R (until you get to the first big horizontal) and the second half is PG13. A funky but surprisingly good nut placement is possible after the crux. This ended up being my first 5.8 (accidentally) so it was a bit scary to say the least but my second said it was pretty fun! Not sure if I'll go back for seconds...

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