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Serra dos Órgãos National Park
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Agulha do Diabo T 
Dedo do Deus (God's Finger) East Route T 

Dedo do Deus (God's Finger) East Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1912, by José Teixeira Guimarães and the three Américo de Oliveira brothers.
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Christian Storms on Jul 6, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Hand made Topo

Description 

For years the summit was claimed to be unreachable by the elite European mountaineers. But in 1912 an all Brazilian party answered the call as José Teixeira Guimarães and the three Américo de Oliveira brothers, a local blacksmith and non-climbers made it. Their original route is called Teixeira and is used in the rappel descent after climbing up the East Route.

Climbing this route today is still amazing not to mention seeing the original bolts that are still in operation. While the original steel ladder is not at the top, once you see it, you'll get shivers imagining how the men who made the first ascent managed to drag it up there. 

The normal route (about VS, 5.6 or 5.7) is up the west side in a series of three (tight) chimneys. 
Another good and popular route climbs the east side, slightly harder and with some more spectacular and tight and dark chimneys (about HVS, 5.8). 

The approach is killer. About an hour straight up and steep then another 45 minutes of cable and slab climbing. 

Then it's time to climb 4 or 5 pitches. 
The first and second pitch can be done in one if you have a long rope. This is basic face climbing with some scrambling to a massive cave with a great view. 
The third pitch is called BLACKOUT which is a chimney that is tight enough to keep out the light of day. 
The fourth pitch another chimney called Maria Cebola). 
From there you'll reach the famous ladder.

Location 

Rappel down Texeira, the original route from 1912. Face the ladder and walk to the right.

Protection 

Anchors at the top of all pitches.


Photos of Dedo do Deus (God's Finger) East Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit, summit, summit.
Summit, summit, summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: And sign the guest book if you please.
And sign the guest book if you please.
Rock Climbing Photo: The shadow in the shot is a must.
The shadow in the shot is a must.
Rock Climbing Photo: Okay...so no shadow.
Okay...so no shadow.
Rock Climbing Photo: overhang rappel
overhang rappel
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit with Du Cha.
Summit with Du Cha.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the descent.
Start of the descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: Original 1912 bolts.
Original 1912 bolts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cable / slab start
Cable / slab start
Rock Climbing Photo: next chimney pitch
next chimney pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Blackout chimney pitch.
Blackout chimney pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st cave
1st cave
Rock Climbing Photo: Wide shot of the mountain.
Wide shot of the mountain.

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