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Decoy Buckets 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Forrest Gardner and Rob Robinson, 1983
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jul 28, 2015

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Description 

Although most guidebooks have this climb listed as a 5.9, I don't know anyone who has climbed it who thinks it's that hard. If you can climb 5.8 elsewhere at Sunset, this one shouldn't give you any problems.

Climb some right-facing flakes up to a small overhang with a small tree above it. Pull over and head left of the tree toward a right-facing corner above. The corner is capped by another overhang, and above that good holds will lead you upward to an exit crack at the top of the cliff.

Location 

To the left of the Giant's Niche -- the large archway to the left of the Blonde Ambition area. Looking at the wall to the left of the arch, there's an obvious right-facing corner system about halfway up. That's the middle of the route.

Protection 

standard rack, bolts w/rings at the top

Although not required for toproping, 4 ft. slings to extend the anchor will save your rope some abuse and ensure you have enough rope to reach the ground.


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