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The Shock Block
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Decorator Crab 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Stallard
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,321
Submitted By: Rough on Oct 6, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Last Climb of the day - cleaning anchors on decora...

Description 

Clip the 1st bolt from the ledge, then step off and right with insta-exposure! Crank up the large holds on alternating vertical and steep terrain till the final slab before the anchors. Classic! There is a 4 bolt Direct Start which starts on a lower tier of rock and goes up a nice dihedral (12 bolts - MUST use a 60M!).

Location 

Start on the far right of the ledge (8 bolts). here is a 4 bolt Direct Start which starts on a lower tier of rock and goes up a nice dihedral (12
bolts - MUST use a 60M!).

Protection 

8 or 12 bolts depending on where you start.


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By Lana dude
May 13, 2013

Favorite of the day. Nice and long with lower start, and cool belay spot
By Floyd Hayes
Nov 3, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first bolt of the lower start is missing. We found a stick to clip the second bolt.
By Johan
From: San Francisco, CA
Nov 18, 2015

The left of the two anchor bolts shared by Decorator Crab and Idle Hands is highly suspect and needs replacement. The hanger spins, but more importantly the bolt itself visibly flexes when one pulls down on it. I did not try to pull outward on it (perpendicular to the rock) or otherwise see if I could dislodge it. The other anchor bolt felt safe, so I rappelled by placing my faith in that bolt.

Thank you to whoever has equipped these climbs! If anybody who is experienced with bolting in this rock type could replace it that would be a great service.
By Kelley Gilleran
From: Sacramento, Ca
Mar 28, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you start off the ledge it's an awesome 5.9 warm-up!