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Echo Cove - South Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Moe T 
Bigger Moe TR 
Boulder Dash T 
Bucket Brigade T 
Curly  S 
Death On The Nile T 
Deceptive Corner T 
Ground Up or Shut Up (aka Poppycock) S 
Larry (aka Out To Lunch) S 
Little Moe T 
Moetown T 
Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge) T 
Undercover T 

Deceptive Corner 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Herb Laeger and Howard Doyle 1977
Page Views: 1,864
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Nov 25, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: View of Deceptive Corner from across the cove. Th...


Start about thirty feet to the right of Death on the Nile (5.10a). Climb the left slanting crack to a ledge. You can belay here if you wish. Surmount the corner, and climb to the top. I've always found the crux to be the move at the top.


standard rack to 3"

Photos of Deceptive Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Deceptive Corner
BETA PHOTO: Deceptive Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux move (for me, anyway) stepping over the l...
The crux move (for me, anyway) stepping over the l...
Rock Climbing Photo: Deceptive Corner
BETA PHOTO: Deceptive Corner
Rock Climbing Photo: "Deceptive Corner". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Deceptive Corner". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Deceptive Corner Add Comment
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By Ryan Avery
Jan 23, 2005

I think the left slanting crack at the start took 3 cams in the .75ish range. If you want to top rope this one you need to leave a cam in the lower crack for a directional. The crux is topping out off a layback move using the hand crack for additional puchase. Be sure to climb the face to the left of the corner and not the actual corner which is probably 5.10+.
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Place a Red Camalot in the corner and put a double sling on it. It won't keep you from hitting the ledge but it will keep you from falling off the ledge. There are places to place pro on the face.
By BCramer
From: Prescott
Apr 26, 2012

It looks as if there are at least two starts that will get you to the ledge. Climb a left leaning crack out right on gear (Mentioned in original route description, 5.7) or big edge face moves with two bolts (shown in Blitzo's beta photo, somewhat harder than 5.7). In either case, putting in a directional where you pull onto the ledge is a good idea to protect the second from swinging out left if they come off. Once on the ledge there are two finishes. Climb the overhanging corner crack directly (5.10+) or climb the slab left of the corner (pro in the corner to keep you from a big fall, easy to crux exit crack move 5.7).

Rock Climbing Photo: Deceptive Corner variations
Deceptive Corner variations
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 5, 2014

As of this post, there is a 3rd bolt near the line in the picture above that traverses left and then up onto the ledge of Deceptive Corner. 5.10-
By Jeff Scofield
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with BCramer led this today with absolutely no beta. We went to Echo Cove to escape the 50 MPH winds. If you climb the over hanging crack you can only get in one piece and no F'n way it's 5.7 more like 5.10+. I did the face just to the left and kept it 5.7 more like 5.8 but hey it's Josh and it's an adventure! do this climb fun but do the blue dot line of BCramer
By steverett
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 26, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed straight up the dihedral (I assumed from the name of the route, it went up the dihedral). Did some stemming at the start. Felt like 5.9 to me. Pro was ok.

Stepped left at the top of the dihedral then back right to finish up in the hand crack.

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