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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,330
Submitted By: Petsfed on Jul 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Just across the way from Friday the 13th is this deceiving line. From a distance, it looks like a simple off-width. Get closer, it looks like hands. Once you're in it, its awkward face moves (in the crack) for about 20 feet until you hit a finger crack. Follow said finger crack up to a ledge, then farther to rap bolts.


Stoppers and cams up to yellow camalot.

Photos of Deception Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Diane cruising up the lower section of Deception. ...
Diane cruising up the lower section of Deception. ...

Comments on Deception Add Comment
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By Joe Collins
Jul 11, 2003

The description above describes the first pitch only, which I'd put in the 5.8 range (a fun lead for those who aren't willing to give Friday the 13th a go). Deception is best done by linking the 2 pitches to the top. The 5.9 comes in a lieback corner just above the rap rings mentioned above. The lieback eventually opens to a short squeeze chimney. Most people will want a #4 camalot for this part.

We weren't able to easily reach the Middle Parallel Space or War Zone anchors from the top of this pitch. To desced, we scrambled over to the anchors on the other side of the formation at the top of Nemo.
By Michael Kullman
Oct 20, 2003

Fun route that packs a nice variety of climbing, harder than it looks (although most of it is 5.7/5.8). The top-out to get to the rap anchors is kind of spooky for moderate leaders (a couple of stout 5.8 slab moves with no pro and a potentially nasty fall). Be sure to go straight up to the very top of the formation and set up an anchor in a small crack to belay the second up this short section (avoids a potential pendulum).
By Dan Mottinger
Jul 3, 2007

Not too bad to link up the two pitches into one, extending the bolt anchor sling genrously. In addition to the #4 Camalot where the the second pitch goes wide, I placed a #4.5 Camalot to protect the final wide section.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013

We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.

For a quick end-of-day wrap up after Middle Parallel Space, doing P1 and lowering off is a great option. If you have larger hands-feet, the jams are locker and the gear options are plentiful.

If you do want to continue with P2, it will link with a 60m rope with P1 easily given good slingage, but you will increase your outing time significantly. P2 is a fun, steep jaunt with a committing offwidth finish, but I'm not sure it warrants the subsequent descent adventure.

As with the earlier comment, the supposed 5.8 unprotectable face climb after P2 to the summit anchors looked really sketchy to us with obvious groundfall potential, so we avoided this.

To get off the formation, from the top of P2 we gently downclimbed into the slot across from the aforementioned "5.8" face, and then headed up-and-left to the opposite side of the overall formation. After a low 5th class downclimb move there, we found rap anchors on the right that lowered off us near the Nemo climb with one 60m rope.
By bart cubrich 1
Sep 2, 2016

I was always under the impression that the first pitch of this was the Thunderbolt route, and that Deception was the scary face climb to the left that goes on small wires. I also thought that the first pitch was only 5.6 or so and that the second pitch was 5.11, the one that goes up around the bulge. Is there a 5.11 that goes up around there somewhere?

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