REI Community
The Manure Pile
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Allen Steck Memorial Route, The T 
Almighty (aka Mighty High), The T 
Barely Crankin' T 
Decepticon T 
Just Slightly Ahead of Our Time S 
Nolan Ryan T 
Snake Dike, The T 
Three Amigos, The T 
Tom Bombadil T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Thoen and Susan Hurst
Page Views: 892
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Apr 21, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Decepticon (5.10a) climbs the smoothest section o...


This route is located on the right end of the west face of The Manure Pile formation. This is a fine route that I've led twice and will lead again. The crux is at the beginning and is height dependent; for me at five nine, it's around ten b/c. If you're shorter, well, life's unfair. Once over the initial pullup, the climb swings up and to the left with enjoyable climbing all the way.


Two bolts and a standard rack

Comments on Decepticon Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
From: CA
Jun 8, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Decent climb right out of the car (be mindful of nearby campers). The real name of this route is Decepticon, the name of a Transformer-type toy. See the link here -

FA was probably early to mid 80's I think.
By Woody Stark
Jun 8, 2004

I noticed the differences in spelling between Bartlett and Vogel and assumed "Decepticon" was a typo.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 24, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

did it today with Tan. Decent climb! And at 5.8 feet tall, it goes at 5.10a.........
By Adam Stackhouse
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thoen and his wife were bored when they did this...
By tony grice
Nov 15, 2006

3 bolts, bolt 2 is loose, watch out. Fun route, easy TR.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 27, 2007

For me, at 5' 91/2" the route feels like 10a; shorter folk must make one more, much harder fiction move at the first bolt to gain the edge for the left hand.
After the crux, the route goes up and right, not left, although there is a curious bolt to the left between bolts two and three.
There are three bolts on this climb. As of this date the top (third) bolt is still very loose.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 12, 2007

The top bolt has been replaced and is good to go now.
By bsavall
Apr 26, 2010

I agree with the other post that shorter folk may have an additional hard move to get to the good hold before the first bolt. At 5'7" that first sequence took me a few tries on top rope before I finally got it.
By Jim Thoen
From: Vista, California
May 5, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Put up in mid 80s using an old rigging axe for a hammer, all I had. Tape I used to haul it tore near the top and just missed Susan -whooo, I wasn't bored after that Adam! (Suuup man?) those were wild times. Added the third bolt in mid 90s. True name "Decepticon" after the toys our boys were playing with. Had passed it over the years and nobody wanted to work it-hence the play on words.
By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Cool moves at/above the first bolt. Good left foot, smear with right, reach directly overhead for two-hand crimp. Don't get suckered into the second (or third?) bolt that's way left. Gear anchor.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About