REI Community
Mary's Bust - main buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broadmoor, The S 
Brown Palace, The S 
Convolution S 
Deceiver S 
Disneyland T,S 
Dynamite S 
Fool Me Twice T,S 
Frisky Lady S 
Just in Time S 
Lie Detector S 
Mary's Jugs S 
Mary's Tricks S 
Maternal Damnation S 
Moon Shadow S 
New Direction T 
Open Road, The S 
Out Of Time S 
Proud Mary S 
Stuck In Time S 
There's Something About Mary T,S 
Violet Blue S 
Wingardium Leviosa T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Deceiver 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Mark Tarrant, May 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,288
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 12, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Description 

Deceiver completes a one pitch route that uses two bolts previously placed by unknown climbers. 30ft of face climbing shifts to well-protected, slab climbing above. Crux is passing the first clip and turned out to be deceptively easier than it appeared. Solid rock all the way and surprisingly clean for this crag.

Location 

Begin just right of the start to Proud Mary. This routes ends at the lowest rap station for PM.

Protection 

Ten draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.


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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 19, 2008

This climb is worth checkin' out. Not a big fan of the Bust, but Deceiver is a great 5.9.
By Bernard Gillett
Jul 31, 2009

If you want to avoid the difficult opening moves on this pitch, start on The Brown Palace and join this route half way up. It makes for a nice 5.7 or 5.8 lead.
By Greg Sievers
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 11, 2010

Well, the first move off the ground is super reach-dependent, and in this case awkward too, and with sharp pointy tips work. So, I've never found an "easier than it apprears" start. Perhaps solid .10 for 2 moves - or some sorta V bouldering rating? But yes, a nice moderate for the Bust area.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 14, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Agree with Greg here, I don't see how this is 5.9. I fact I don't think 10b is crazy given the steep pulls on small holds at the start, though I could see it being easier if you are tall. Fun route though.
By brucelacroix
From: Carson City, NV.
Jun 24, 2016

I too, thought it was hard for the grade. Gave up and traversed in from the left.
By tkessel
From: Windsor,CO
May 2, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Opening moves felt 10ish.
By Rich Kelly
From: Boulder
Jun 11, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

You may want to stick clip the 2nd bolt as you may hit the ground if you blow the 2nd clip, and if TR'ing someone, keep a tight rope on the opening moves, otherwise they could hit the ground hard if they slip off.
By Richard Blumberg
Aug 13, 2017

We did the start of this when doing Brown Palace today. The initial moves off the ground up until the 2nd bolt were easily on par with any moves on the rest of Brown Palace, including the 5.11a pitches. Not sure how this could be 10- and be consistent with other route grades at the crag.

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