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Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 20'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Andy Patterson? Maybe? Correct me if I'm wrong...
Page Views: 1,114
Submitted By: Sean Denny on Apr 23, 2011

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This is it. This is THE CLIMB of Potter's Point. Is there anything about this climb that isn't awesome? Well, maybe the landing, but that just makes this line even more proud.
Sit start matched on the big flake. Make some burly moves up and left until reaching a good edge at the lip of the steep overhang. Break right using some small intermediates to a crystalline crimp in the middle of the dimpled face. Execute some dark sorcery and hit the inviting gaston jug. Hero jug to top out.


The middle of the striking overhanging face of the Debra Boulder. Same start as Jenny.


Pads and spotters. There is a nice boulder right in the crux landing zone. Protect-able, just pay attention.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2017
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 29, 2011
rating: V8 7B

I've always roped up at Caveman when visiting Potter's Point, so the bouldering was only a vague mystery, just meters away. Of course, I had to check out this problem, given all the buzz. Matching the little sharp crimp was pretty devious. Great powerful moves.
By Sean Denny
From: Irvine
Nov 1, 2011

Congrats! I do believe you're the first to finish this one.
I had to leave soon after getting all the moves, so I never got to send. Looking forward to getting back on it.

I'm glad to hear that folks are continuing to boulder at Potter's, that place definitely deserves some love.
By JSlack
Nov 7, 2011

Nice work Andy! Glad to see this thing finally go. I'm shocked that, after two years, that starting block is still attached.
By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
May 16, 2012
rating: V8-9 7B+

So the tiny crimp you had to do a really bad match even worse now. I broke a small part on the far left which allowed you to get your ring finger on solid. Now it sucks.
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
May 17, 2012
rating: V8 7B

Bummer. I guess everybody's hands are different, but when I did it, I think my ring-finger (left hand) slipped off, leaving just a few sorry pads for the crux. I recall there being a sharp little crystal too.
By Tim King
Jan 25, 2013

Ah, I only got to give this one a few proper burns as we exhausted extra time and energy at Skofield prior, but I was able to match and start making the move for the jug (hit it, but not properly). To me, the crimp felt big enough that you could grab the far right side with your right hand (almost like a mini-knob), and come into the match with enough room for your left. I dunno, felt about an 8 to me, but I'll have to wait for the send to really say. It's just a drastically different style when compared to Dancing Outlaw (crimps vs slopes).

Here's a little clip of Sean making quick work (says about an 8):
Two From SB
(bonus G.Hippy send at the end)
By Alex Rich
From: Santa Barbara, California
May 31, 2015

Went up and tried this guy for the first time today. Second try I matched the crimp and was getting ready to throw for the jugs and the right side incut crystal blew off in my face. The match feels damn near impossible now. It might still go but I doubt it's v8 anymore, that crystal was the only positive thing you could hit out right that left enough room for the match. I'm going to go back and try using this tiny incut gaston crimp to cross into the upper crimp and avoid the match entirely.
By Sean Denny
From: Irvine
Jun 1, 2015

Major bummer, Alex. I had a sinking feeling that hold would break one day. Hope you find some new beta!
By Duke Lettieri
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 16, 2017
rating: V8 7B

By Duke Lettieri
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 16, 2017
rating: V8 7B

This line definitely still goes since the small breakage of the match crimp. I never saw the hold before, but in its current state, the problem feels v8.
By Pablo Hammack
Apr 16, 2017

The only thing that broke was the little nipple. The WHOLE entire crimp is there. It doesn't change anything and is still amazing.
By Tim King
Apr 18, 2017

Yeah after all these years, a tiny knob broke off the crimp, that block is still there, and the twisted tree fell breaking off the flake of Jenny.

But the slow moving wave of sandstone that is Neon Genesis still stands, like the sands of time, ever cresting.

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