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Deborah T 
Hourglass Couloir, The 



Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original: M3-4 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: ???? First Winter Ascent: Gil Weiss, Scotty Nelson, March 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: late winter-early spring
Page Views: 4,489
Submitted By: Gil Weiss on Mar 19, 2010

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A view of the line on Deborah center right on Arro...


This is the obvious couloir splitting the south face of Arrowhead. It is similar to Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker in its legnth and difficulty.

Either climb the West Gully out of Black Lake, or hike up and around to the South Face of Arrowhead and head straight for the base of the couloir. There could be some ice in spring with proper conditions. Expect mostly snow climbing with 4-5 mixed steps/constrictions, ranging from M2-4. This is about 5 pitches with a 60 meter rope, but it's best to simulclimb. The last part of the couloir splits into a left and right exit option. Take the right to keep the difficulty low, or go for the left option which is a steep rock chimney. Scramble the remaining ridge to the summit of Arrowhead...because summits matter!

See the rock climbing section for Arrowhead to obtain descent info. Classic!


It is on the South face of Arrowhead in Glacier Gorge.


A single rack, slings, ice tools, and crampons.

Photos of Deborah Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Skiing the "3rd class" descent route, cl...
Skiing the "3rd class" descent route, cl...
Rock Climbing Photo: South Face of Arrowhead.  Deborah is the couloir g...
BETA PHOTO: South Face of Arrowhead. Deborah is the couloir g...

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