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West Rattlesnake Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Death Wish in Paradise T 
Stroll in Paradise T 

Death Wish in Paradise 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Recorded: Eli Buzzell and Shawn Bunnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 246
Submitted By: Eli Buzzell on May 4, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The best line I can draw from the ground, it is pr...

Description 

From the tree, head up the left-leaning flaring crack until it runs out. Continue up the slabs to large pine tree that you can sling and belay from. Scramble to the top.
Super fun and exciting climbing on this route! Lichen isn't a problem, and the rock is mostly solid. After the initial steep slab, the grade mellows out pretty well and turns into about 5.6(+/-) friction climbing. The gear is not good after the crack, and placements are scarce. Be sure to bring your lead head, this route is a rewarding climb with a stunning view at the belay.

Location 

This route is pretty much in the center of the cliff, and starts under the left leaning crack where two large trees are sitting very close to the cliff.

Protection 

Tri-cams are super useful. In the crack I placed a red tri-cam for the low section, and then a BD .75 C4 in the upper part. Best to shove as much gear as you can into the crack, because you're not going to get much else for the rest of the pitch. TCU's may be helpful and as always, never forget your small nuts.


Photos of Death Wish in Paradise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn following Death Wish
Shawn following Death Wish
Rock Climbing Photo: After the ascent, psyched to have not died.
After the ascent, psyched to have not died.
Rock Climbing Photo: The line from the right of the two trees (that gea...
BETA PHOTO: The line from the right of the two trees (that gea...

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