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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Livin' on a Prayer S 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
War Party S,TR 

Death to the Right 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Ken Stanton
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

A one move wonder. Instead of going over the roof immediatly, follow beneath it on the overly facile climbing until you can clip the second bolt. Clip it, then up and over the roof. Fun move, boring climb.

Protection 

2 bolts to the same 2 bolt anchor as Step To The Left. Very runout climbing until you get to the roof. Rope drag will be an even bigger problem than on Stop To The Left


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By Jerry Dodrill
From: Bodega, CA
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

This variation of "Step to the Left" has long been referred to as "Death to the right" though the death block is gone now. Bring some cams. Many of the Far Side routes were established by local climber Ken Stanton in the mid '80s.
By Floyd Hayes
Dec 21, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

As Jerry Dodrill stated, this is a variation of Step to the Left. Instead of stepping left after clipping the second bolt on the vertical dihedral, move right under the roof (easy class five), clip the hidden third bolt above the roof (a bomber small cam can be placed beneath the roof), and pull the roof. The climb is well protected with supplemental cams, but be careful between the first cam and first bolt. If top-roping, use the third bolt as a directional.
By FourT6and2 Haftel
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 18, 2016

Super bomber bolts at the top now. There are 4. All with good hardware and rap rings. 2 for this climb, 2 for the one on the other side of the arete.

The climb itself is not bad. I had fun on it. I did a few laps on it and went over the roof in three different spots for some variety. Not bad.

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