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Death of a Monarch 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c X [details]
FA: Bob Gray, Luke Douglas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,817
Submitted By: BobGray on Nov 9, 2008

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Johnny hates crack. Top of the pitch 2 crack.From ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


First Pitch starts in a seam like corner, look for one bolt leading to a 2 bolt anchor, the second pitch crack is visible from the start, Second pitch is the obvious crack leading to anchors. Bring a 70m rope. Originally 5.8x. (might still be....)


Booty wall area


Standard Little Cottonwood Rack up to #3.5 or #4 camalot

Photos of Death of a Monarch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: coming out the 2nd pitch dihedral.
coming out the 2nd pitch dihedral.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2017
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 9, 2008

What made it X rated? Sounds like you're keeping a good story from us.
By tenesmus
Nov 10, 2008

The second pitch is pretty cool for the 5.8 leader. To finish it, you can either go straight up from the dihedral or traverse right across the slab above the roof with decent pro for 20-30 feet to another 2 bolt/chain anchor. If you finish this way you can rap directly over a roof to a second set of anchors with one more rap getting you to the first pitch anchors.

I'd give this another star if the first pitch wasn't so runnout for the 5.8 leader. If it had 2 more bolts it'd be fine but my friends were freaked out the way it is.
By Luke Douglas
Nov 10, 2008

This climb was given the X rating because if you fall the gear would not hold, you will slam into the talus and in all likelyhood die.
This climb went down with zero bolts and some pro that took a long prayer session just to stay in the rock. It travels through some really good rock with no protection opportunities for about 50'and then breaks left on a ramp which parallels the roof. Protection is not a problem on this section of the climb. Move up and toward the second pitch crack at the break in the roof.We thought the crack would be some crippler and were super surprised to find the sweetness we did.
Bob and I are in the process of adding another bolt. So this climb will stay exciting but will become much more comfortable for the 5.8 leader.This climb is at LEAST R right now.
  • On a side note when I do a climb now days it is for my own selfish ass. I also doubt that any of the climbers that I look to for examples, tradition, and inspiration (whether Joe Brown or Brian Smoot or George Lowe) were taking me and my pansy ass into consideration when they were/are out establishing lines. In fact you should see the shit stains in my underoos. Nahhh.... I am positive more and more each day that the tradition I hope to follow involves more fear, more sacking up, and fewer bolts. Right after the first post attacking George Lowe for not considering the 5.8 leader I will re-consider my current philosophy.
By zoso
Nov 10, 2008

What a fantastic 5.8 lead out of that dihedral/roof. I give that 2.5/3 stars.
By tenesmus
Nov 10, 2008

that's hilarious! Fun route up there.
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Nov 10, 2008

Hey Luke!
I agree that this route is really good. I think I snapped that photo of John Star. I don't think you should add any bolts, this route protects where you need it too. I didn't feel it to be dangerous, so you should keep it in its original state.

Happy Times!

By Mark Shah
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R

The 2nd half of the 2nd pitch is indeed awesome (an easier and more enjoyable version of "Touch Up"), but keep in mind that to get there one has to travel through a lot of unprotectable, though easy terrain. For me, this route felt a bit too loose, with too little protection, to be worth a second trip up it.
By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

I climbed the route with Mark Shah yesterday, and echo his remarks. The first ascenders deserve credit for spying the excellent upper crack and the slabs above it, which provide spectacular and fun climbing. (The crack is easier than it looks. A bit like "Touchup," but easier and better!)
Unfortunately (in my view, at least) both pitches have sections where there is no real protection, the rock is dirty and a bit slick, and there is real potential for a ground fall ending in death.
This is NOT a 5.8 route for a 5.8 leader. I would still rate it "X." Because the crack at the top is so nice, I hope the first ascentionists will consider adding enough bolts to at least keep people off the ground.
Respectfully Submitted,
Peter Lenz
By Luke Douglas
Sep 27, 2011

Peter and Mark,
Glad you got out to explore.
Some will consider most if not all of the routes in Tanners to be at least R rated. The goal here was to follow a more old school philosophy in route developement. Climbs were not protected for a specific level of leader based on their rating.
Have fun.
By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 17, 2012

Better eat your Wheaties before attempting this one! I know how it is to take a very big fall on easy terrain, if someone wants to add a bolt or two I'm ok with it, but I am not going to add anything to the route.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 12, 2017

The 5.8 to the left with (FYB or something) two bolts just off the ground can be used as an alternate first pitch. The crux is getting to the 2nd bolt.

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