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Death of a Cowboy 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Petro & Gnade
Page Views: 4,976
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Mar 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Brad Gobright smiles his way through a leisurely n...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Death of a Cowboy is a five-star route with a great boulder problem start followed by one of the best 100' stretches of 5.10 hands in the creek. The in-your-face opening demands powerful moves on first knuckle locks with crap for feet to a total hero move to a jug. Standing on this jug provides a nice rest and time to soak up the glory of the send before tackling overhanging hands to vertical wide hands forever.

Protection 

A few green and yellow Aliens for the start, then a couple #1 Camalots protect transitioning to the hand crack. The hand crack itself is #2 and #3 Camalots all the way. A 70m rope is necessary to reach the ground.


Photos of Death of a Cowboy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: RIP my finger skin after giving this 6 (insanely f...
RIP my finger skin after giving this 6 (insanely f...
Rock Climbing Photo: Death of a Cowboy
Death of a Cowboy

Comments on Death of a Cowboy Add Comment
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By D-Storm
Apr 25, 2012

It seems the difficulty of the boulder problem could be a bit height dependent, but not in the usual sense. My friend is a couple inches taller than me, about 6-foot, and much more powerful but he couldn't seem to handle the first hard move, while I stuck it every time. It must still be doable for the tall folks, though, because I've seen a picture of Clay Cahoon on it, and that guy is tall! (I don't know if he sent or not, but knowing the kind of climber he is, I'm sure he did.)
By Brad G
From: 1994 Honda Civic
Oct 29, 2012

A great route to try if you're looking to break into 5.13. Four #3 camolots would be comfortable for the top.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Yosemite Valley, CA
Mar 5, 2017
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

This thing has unfortunately seen the same fate as Ruby's Cafe. The crux is being loved to death while the rest of the pitch seems relatively untouched. I believe this has resulted in a widening of the crack and a downgrade, even 12+ is a bit generous and I have quite large fingers. That being said, what an awesome pitch! Get on it and climb to the anchor!

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