REI Community
search
Mern
Select Route:
Death Flake Arete T 

Death Flake Arete 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Pelczarsk & Nicole Uhre, June 17th, 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: Tater Tot on Jul 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Lovebirds and various other spires found in Th...

Description 

Climb the arete on the east side of the spire. Generally, the rock is of beautiful quality with almost nothing likely to break except for a couple dubious flakes. One was removed and the other has become known as the Death Flake. Watch out for it on the left hand side of the route about a third of the way up! It is possible to climb around it on the right then step back left to good holds just above the Death Flake as was done on the first ascent.

Protection 

3 fixed pitons, at least one large cam (4 or 5) to protect the wide crack at the bottom, and a few small cams and nuts. Rappel off summit from a new two bolt anchor. One rope down south face.


Photos of Death Flake Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Dalymore as seen from the summit of Death Fl...
Mount Dalymore as seen from the summit of Death Fl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper tier of spires found in The Chessmen as seen...
Upper tier of spires found in The Chessmen as seen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Death Flake Arete
BETA PHOTO: Death Flake Arete

Comments on Death Flake Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By SThal
From: Logan, UT
Jun 26, 2017

Great route. It had me waffling a few times. I thought the key gear was 00 c3 size or 5-6 bd nut size.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About