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East End Wall
Routes Sorted
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Rusted Rapture T 
Daywalker T 
Death Dealer T 
Experimental Forrest T 
Golden Corner T 
Helix T 
Nightwalker T 
Pack Mentality T 
Ultraviolet Ammunition T 

Death Dealer 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: J. Unema, B. McCord
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Joel Unema on Sep 17, 2014

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Death Dealer

Description 

Death Dealer is a classic and varied basalt pitch. It begins with a powerful layback, moves into technical climbing on unique holds around a thin seam, and finishes on a one-of-a-kind boulder problem on crisp basalt edges.

Protection 

The first free ascent was done on all gear, however several of the key pieces protecting the difficult climbing are small, hard to place, and not really very good. The FA party decided to add 3 bolts to protect the climb.
Bring quickdraws for the bolts, a single set of cams from C4 #.4 to #3, a full set of nuts from small to big (offsets useful), one each 000 and 00 C3 and a double set of cams from 0 c3 to #.3 C4.

Location 

Death Dealer follows the thin seam about 20 feet left of Rapture. It begins beneath the Rapture pillar in a steep corner. Belay on the ground. At 60 feet or so, the line splits, with Death Dealer continuing up the left seam, and Ultraviolet Ammunition traversing right to gain the right seam.


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By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Sep 19, 2014

Sooo much spray, so much beta! How does one expect a climber to onsight with such ridiculous amounts of over hype?! This is the problem with modern climbing and development! Play for play beta spray photo/video, gear lists with GPS coordinates. Much disappointment! Northern Arizona is played out, no more new routes, and top ropes everywhere!
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 19, 2014

C'mon…... We all know that the best MP route descriptions are edited then re-edited with a fine toothed comb so they will achieve a maximum number of page views. A masterpiece may be in the works.
By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 27, 2014

A masterpiece this route description is not, however the route itself certainly is. Really one of the best basalt 5.12's I've done.
By Alex Kirkpatrick
Sep 29, 2014

Adding bolts eh? Its almost like you want other people to climb your routes. Hmm, interesting.
By Jimbo
Sep 29, 2014

Um... sounds like someone needs to go put up his own routes in a style he finds acceptable.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 29, 2014

Maybe you should change the name to Life Saver.... Good work you guys. I rapped this line years ago, and thought it looked pretty good. Looking forward to checking it out one of these days.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 30, 2014

Alex is no stranger to putting up routes in a variety of style and when he is back I am guessing he will do more of it. Hope the hammie is getting better Alex.s
By GUmojo
Oct 5, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: Route establishment ethic?
Route establishment ethic?