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Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Wayne Crill and Eric Johnson, 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: not hot weather
Page Views: 109
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Apr 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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During the Ace of Spades FA, photo by Hard Cor.

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  • Description 

    The climbing is big fun, and in my opinion this would easily be a three star PG-13 route if the detached flake were 100% solid. It's not going anywhere, but I wouldn’t trust it for gear. To me, this makes it a little more serious than PG-13 and not quite worth three stars. Like Lemmy said, " know I'm born to lose, and gambling's for fools, but that's the way I like it baby, I don't want to live forever...."

    Begin up technical face to the right of the tree starting Stay Hungry. A 5.10 move or two off the ground leads to fun, unprotected 5.8 slab for 25’ to the right-angling system that provides finger-sized gear and the broken band below the roof. From a stance at the band, find very good Loweball protection in a pod/slot to begin climbing out the overhanging dihedral. Climb crimpers to steep jugs and up a detached flake to an open hand jug (#3 Camalot) and up to a stance above the blocks and below a delicate dihedral with a small crack. Intricate slot/arête/face climbing takes you to the top. It feels Jalapeño spicy, but it could be more like Habanero?


    This route climbs the overhanging, right-facing dihedral just left of Anthurium and to the right of Stay Hungry, topping out just light of the Anthurium anchors to a ledge.


    Gear: Standard Eldo rack including #1 and #2 Loweballs, micronuts.

    Photos of Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
    Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
    Ace of Spades, Hard Cor Photography.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ace of Spades FA, Hard Cor Photography.
    Ace of Spades FA, Hard Cor Photography.

    Comments on Death Card (aka Ace of Spades) Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By gregsmiller
    From: Louisville
    Apr 23, 2013

    Nice work, Wayne! I looked at this a couple of years ago but never went back for the lead! Way to get after it on another, obvious, unclimbed line in Eldo!!
    greg miller
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Apr 23, 2013

    Nice send, Wayne! And nice photos by Cory.
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Apr 24, 2013

    I remember you showing me that last winter. Way to go.
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    May 16, 2013

    I was up at Peanuts the other day and found out that there is already an Eldo route named 'Ace of Spades' up there (doh!). So I had to rename this rig, so there you go.

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