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Death by Departure 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b X [details]
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Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 13, 2006

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not in the Guidebook! Fantastic exposure and good climbing on steep rock. This climb is getting better and better as it cleans up. First pitch will get your heart pounding (X rated - and somewhat dirty and loose) Climb up to 1st bolt, then head right on good holds. Just when you're starting to freak, work the #2 into a weird leaning, shallow crack (kinda questionable), and then head up and over the overhang (good holds). Get next bolt and then climb thin dihedral (crux) above bolt to big ledge. Several small to medium cams needed for belay) second pitch - (R rated and loose/dirty) head out right edge (super exposed) of big red overhang, find great pro in a horizontal crack. then head left and up. You should find a perfect spot for a yellow TCU in a little pillar about midway up the pitch. Aim for the top (right leaning big crack). Squeeze up the loose feeling/chimney thing that overhangs everything and sling a boulder for the belay at the top.

Location 

Start beneath ominous overhanging wall right as the trail meets the creek.

Protection 

#2 camalot is handy, otherwise nuts and cams to 3 inches, two bolts.


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By C Banks
From: Edmond, OK
Feb 24, 2017

I led the first pitch several years ago, hanging once on gear just below the second bolt and then again on the second bolt, before then finishing the lead. This pitch is pretty good! The only belay anchor I could find on the obvious ledge was pretty much crap, however. Also, I was unable to locate the intended climbing line of the second pitch from the written description provided here. Maybe others will have more luck.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 27, 2017

I got this information from RC.com, where Terry Andrews posted it back in 2004. The late Jimmy Ray Forester made him lead both pitches and suggested it was one of his favorites. He might provide some insight on that 2nd pitch if you should ever cross paths.

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