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Chocolate Factory
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Death by Chocolate 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson 2012
Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on Nov 21, 2016

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Description 

This classic route exemplifies RRG jug hauling. With no hard moves for the grade, overhanging over 40 feet and traversing over 50 feet to the right, this long line is all about controlling the pump. I've heard it called the "40 oz of Justice" of the Chocolate Factory & "Easy Rider's" big brother, and these seemed like accurate descriptions.

Start off a small stack of cheater stones and climb thru sandy holds and a few wet holds in a right facing corner. Traversing rightwards climb thru the first ledge system to a final shake, before the sustained overhanging face. Crimp your way thru about 6 bolts to a good rest on the left side of the hueco. (Currently a sit down rest hasn't been excavated here, but it may appear in the future.) Rest up and pull hard moves with another wet hold to get over the roof. Pump your way thru more crimps and pockets to a hard clip (sometimes skipped) and the crux. Pull on a few smaller holds to a good rest and easier but still pumpy (and a lot of rightwards traversing) to the anchors.

Grade feels pretty stiff for 13a, and might well be 13b. Probably a bit harder than BOHICA. Could continue to get harder as it cleans up.

Location 

Rightmost route in the Chocolate factory cave area, on the right side of the crag. Starts off a stack of cheater stones up on a large rock. On the approach, take every right turn to approach the wall at "Buttercup". This is ~150ft to the right of that. Between the recently sent "Sweet Kiss" 14b to the left and "Bittersweet" 13c to the right.

Protection 

70m rope, uses about 66m of it. Stickclip. Currently fixed with project draws. If not bring lots of draws ~18.


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