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Death and Disfiguration T 
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Death and Disfiguration 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson (?date?)
Season: Faces N.E.
Page Views: 1,502
Submitted By: Tony B on May 22, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Kurt chilling in the chimney/stembox.

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  • Description 

    This is a decent route despite the lichen on it. The bottom of it is littered with large grey flakes of lichen, the kind that crackles like leaves, not the sort that turns to dust. It is absent from the crack and the holds you'd want to use. The top is cleaner, and I've brushed it down a bit to clean it up. The route felt clean enough and solid afterwards, though our passage probably more resembled a first ascent than a romp up a clean trade route. The mashed stopper fixed 5 meters up the route, is a reminder of ascents past, however.

    Significantly downhill on the North face from Death and Transfiguration, and beyond Salsa Verde, there is a left facing corner. Flakes of grey lichen are in the start, but are absent on the upper portion of the route. As the crack goes up, it hits a significant roof about 8 meters up. This has an excellent handcrack (for thin hands, or a tight #2 camalot) and is in a bomb-bay stem-box to keep things moderate. The crux is pulling the lip and getting up into the low-angled handcrack above.


    A set of cams from 1.5" to 3" and a few slings.

    Photos of Death and Disfiguration Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The roof and stem box of D&D.  The lichen-y corner...
    BETA PHOTO: The roof and stem box of D&D. The lichen-y corner...

    Comments on Death and Disfiguration Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Oct 31, 2005

    During an on-sight, solo, first free attempt back in the seventies, Jim Erickson fell from this route and broke both his legs! He then had to crawl down to the Royal Arch Trail for help.
    By Aaron Martinuzzi
    Aug 2, 2009
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

    The new Jason Haas guidebook has this route at 10b - I climbed the Maiden's East Ridge without much trouble recently and this felt tougher, maybe because it was pretty acrobatic? Anyway I got a little spanked, but made it through.
    By Paul Glover
    Jul 8, 2010

    This route may be cursed. Erickson biffed and did the Joe Simpson death crawl down to the Royal Arch trail. When I was pulling the lip my rope became hopelessly wedged and I had to untie mid-move and solo the easy finish. The only reason to even get on this one is because it was the scene of Jim's torturous epic. To be honest I felt kinda stupid roping up for this silly little thing. If one considers it may also be cursed, well...
    By Kevin Gillest
    From: Arvada, CO
    Oct 4, 2011
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    No doubt harder than it looks without using that big stem, big throw to the arete is the finish, does not seem to be cursed! But I can say I was glad to be tied to the rope.

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