|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Craig McCudden on Jan 1, 2002|
|Comments on Death & Disfiguration||Add Comment|
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By Doug Hemken
Aug 4, 2008
Gear to 2 inches. At the crux you'll want a small nut, tri-cam, or a small cam.
The part of the route above the pillar is short but sustained, and I've heard loads of people describe this route as "pumpy."
At least two people I know have broken bones trying to lead this route: be sure you get a good directional as you leave the top of the pillar.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 16, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Is this route to the right of Prime Rib and Degrade Your Sister? The route description says "detached block" and the only one in the area I know of is right by those routes. I could really investigate for myself but I'm feeling awfully lazy. Thanks!|
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2010
|Yes. Next route to the right of "Degrade My Sister". You climb up behind the big block and start the route coming off the top of this block which makes the starting moves proper of the route a bit sketchy on the lead as in not so much for lousy gear but just make sure you place it well and often so that if you fall you don't go hitting the block as in the examples Doug alludes to above. This is a really good route for the grade otherwise with pumpy, devious, and sustained climbing and good gear to protect.|