BETA PHOTO: Watch out for these on the road! We saw a couple ...
Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.
Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).
Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.
About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.
The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.
Weather station 11.3 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Deadwater
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Deadwater:
Featured Route For Deadwater
Crazy Horse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NY
: ... : Main Cliff
This is a high-quality line with two tricky, beta-intensive cruxes. It's easy to set up a toprope by leading Space Cowboy.Start in the Space Cowboy corner and go up a few feet, then traverse right to a good right-facing flake. Use a left-facing edge to gain a stance below the first roof. Over this (crux #1) and up to a second roof (crux #2) and on to a third roof. Break this using a crack (#0.5 Camalot), then up an easier face (runout, but easy) to a fixed tree anchor shared wi...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
From: San Pedro, California
Sep 26, 2012
Everywhere else i looked at in chapel pond pass was totally soaked from rain last night and overcast drizzle today. Deadwater was almost totally dry! Made our day today.
Sep 29, 2016
Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks.