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Deadman's Rappel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bill Nagel and Ron Anderson (1977)
Page Views: 3,717
Submitted By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Feb 19, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Dinosaur Rock - East and South Face Climbs


Route 14 in photo. The first climb you see as you come out ot the trees from the parking area. Climb the short face to the first bolt and follow the arete to the left. Transition to the face on your right and continue straight up.


8 bolts, 2-bolt anchor at top with chains.

Photos of Deadman's Rappel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: route descrips from guide
BETA PHOTO: route descrips from guide
Rock Climbing Photo: main topo
BETA PHOTO: main topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on route. Note the giant block in the cr...
Somewhere on route. Note the giant block in the cr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Deadman's Rappel
Deadman's Rappel
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun

Comments on Deadman's Rappel Add Comment
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By Rick D
From: Reno, NV
Mar 24, 2009

FA: Bill Nagel, Ron Anderson, 77'
By Ron Anderson
Aug 7, 2009

retro bolted by the first ascentionist..... originally done clean...
Sep 22, 2013

Regarding Deadmans Rappel which on this site some are calling the gash,,,, A rather SERIOUS accident occurred on this climb recently. The large block just up and left of the first bolt was pulled off by a climber off route, resulting in broken arms and an amputated leg.

This block had bee messed with prior to the accident by someone gardening the squaw tea brush around it, which then loosened the block which by pics provided had begun to lean outward. The dirt and rubble holding it in place being washed out by rains and snows. It was the ready to topple off IF someone grabbed it. Which happened and resulted in dire consequence.

My point here is that IF you decides to clean some brush, or around obvious loose blocks which the brush interact with, go ahead and trundle to pos block. Other wise its just another time bomb. That block and brush had been there for at least 37 years that i know of but that gardening made it go from stable to dangerous in a season or two. The route is popular and has seen thousands of ascents. All of which by passed the block well to the left as the route goes. But one errant grab is all it took..
Apr 8, 2014

I pulled a large flake that was behind the block and getting loose this weekend. The route is looking good now.
By Elizabeth Leddy
Sep 15, 2014

This is a really stellar 5.7. Even if you climb harder its fun, long, and in the shade on hot days.
By Sam Sala
From: Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2016

Climbed this yesterday with my kid-sis while we're both home for Thanksgiving. Fun route although leading with a first time lead-belayer on numb fingertips made it a bit more interesting than it probably needed to be. Fortunately all worked out and we had a blast. Super positive climbing to solid looking chains up top. Felt like the crux was the movement around the first two bolts.

The large block that came off in 2013 is still in the creek at the base and serves as a gnarly reminder of what can go wrong. There was a guy being helped up to the cars after falling right as we walked across the creek. Ankle was pretty bloodied and he seemed dazed. Best info I could suss out from folks helping him, was he was soloing up to clean the 1st draw and fell. Bounced a few times on his back, head, and shoulders down the blocks to the creek. We must have missed it by just a minute or two. He was walking out under his own power so we didn't offer any further help past asking if they needed anything. They said they were going to get him checked out, and I'm hopeful he's doing alright today. Cheers, wherever you are, man!
By Shawn Whitney
Jul 24, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Big flake about 3/4 the way up is feeling a bit sketch/loose. It may only be a matter of time until someone pulls it off. We tried avoiding it as much as possible. Be careful!
Also, left a locking biner on the chains this weekend, please leave it there I will be back for it real soon. Thanks

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