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Deadline 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jeremy Collins, Robo Oblennis, Jared Sickler
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 529
Submitted By: Jer Collins on Jan 20, 2008

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Pulling the lip of the second roof, with the third...

Description 

A long route, intersecting three roofs, with a wide variety of climbing in it's 90 or so feet.

Start off a rock stack to avoid the rotten rock at the base. A sharp, mailbox rail on the left leads right through some interesting moves leading out the first ceiling. After a nice, featured face, you come to an un-needed, but available set of anchors. You can belay here, or skip it and clip the first bolt in the second roof and start making your way out. After surmounting the awkward exit to the left(including difficult clip); the holds gradually get larger as does the exposure.

Take a good breath- it's not over yet. Large holds and some gear lead up to the third roof and a final bolt. The finish is not so difficult by itself, but you may have a fair amount of blood built up in your forearms at this point, so tough it out through the lay-back and mantle finish to a set of anchors looking out over the whole valley.

This route is absolutely impossible to clean on rappel or lower due to it's length, left trending line, and steepness.

Location 

Find the route "Redline", the huge arcing dihedral. Deadline crosses through the ceiling in the middle of this route.

Protection 

First half- 6 bolts(stickclip start)
second half-a small rack of cams to 3.5"
anchor half way, rap anchor at top


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By Jer Collins
May 26, 2008

fixed draws added to the second ceiling, 5/08

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