REI Community
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bombay Sapphire T 
Brothers in Arms T 
Deadend Dihedral T 
Europa T 
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 
Freeway T 
Gauntlet, The T 
Men Holding Hands T 
Millenium Falcon T,S 
Sticky Fingers T 
Stone Free T 
Sunset Strip T 
Warriors of the Wasteland T 
Unsorted Routes:

Deadend Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b PG13 [details]
FA: John Rance, Frank Baumann 1969. FFA Craig McGee and Evan Stevens
Page Views: 1,376
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Sep 10, 2007

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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>


A long standing unfreed super classic 3 pitch route that was finally cleaned up, retro-fitted and freed this summer (2007).

p1: 11b. Use any technique in the book to climb the dihedral for 35m to the bolted belay. Many small cams and wires, but there are good rests, hang in there!

p2: 12b 10m. Clip the bolt above the belay and figure out the short but vicious crux, followed by a beautiful thin finger crack to the 2 bolt belay.

p3: 12a 20m. Follow the impeccable dihedral to its end, then undercling and traverse left to the anchor. Clip the bolt and call upon the onsight gods to figure out the mystery finish move to the bolted belay.

2 35m raps get you back to your backpacks.


The Dihedrals area to the left of Freeway and the right of Arrowroot and Millenium Falcon. There should be a fixed line to pull up to a stance below a 40m x 1m wide dihedral with a thin crack.


RPs x 2, Small wires x 2, Double set of cams from grey tcu to .75 camalot, one each #1, 2 and 3 camalot. Dozen draws and runners (for the many small wires!)

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By Tim Bonnell
Jul 31, 2017

The 1st pitch has recently been re-cleaned and is in perfect condition - it could be one of the very best 11b pitches in Squamish. For gear, I'd recommend:
3 x grey metolius
5 x purple met (or green C3)
3 x blue met
3 x yellow met
1 x orange met
1 each of BD .4, .5, .75 and 1
a set of nuts

A BD #3 can be placed in one spot on p1 but there are tons of other options. I don't think a BD#2 will go in anywhere

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