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Dead Toad 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Glenn Cilley and Bruce Clough 7/93
Page Views: 1,712
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Looking up Dead Toad.


A great variation to White Toad (5.7). The climbing is better than that of the usual second pitch and it offers steeper climbing on bolts rather than a slab with scarce pro (we are at Rumney after all, lets enjoy it).

Pitch 1: Climb the first pitch of White Toad (5.7 trad).

Pitch 2: From the first belay on White Toad head out left and clip your first bolt. The crux is getting established on the climb. Make a few steep powerful 5.8 moves to gain nice stemming and easier moves. After 20 feet or so you make one more tricky move to a stance at which time the tough stuff is over and you clip one more bolt before traversing right to the nice ledge above the first belay. Rap from here or continue up White Toad.


Starts on the ledge at the top of pitch one of White Toad.


Small rack for pitch one (White Toad) and about 8 draws for Dead Toad.

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By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Dec 7, 2009

This description is spot on except you go out to the left from the anchors of White Toad's first pitch. Cool climb.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 7, 2009

thanks, i fixed it... i fail the class that teaches left from right haha...
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Dec 8, 2009

:-) No no, thank you! I'm grateful for all the great beta and maps on MP that have helped me over the past year and many of them are actually things you've posted Lee. I'll try and give back when I can and hopefully help someone else.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 8, 2009

thats what its all about ;)
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really good short pitch, it would get full stars if the corner you climb was another forty feet long. I would highly recommend this pitch to everyone!
By bradley white
From: Bend
Sep 26, 2015

I'm always looking at where I'll end up if I screw up and this was not a climb for me to fall off of the crux bc I would have slammed into the ledge below.

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