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Dead Ráibéad 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Nelson, Chris Whisenhunt, Craig Reger
New Route: Yes
Season: morning sun, afternoon shade
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: camhead on Oct 1, 2014

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Description 

This is a direct finish to The Rabbit Almost Died. Despite it being a variation, this is actually the "plumb line," and it also connects into a very obvious fingercrack feature at the top of the wall. The line follows most of the crux (as well as all three bolts, which NRAC recently upgraded to half inch stainless, woo!) of The Rabbit to a frustratingly hard, reachy, right-traversing boulder problem on nipples and slimpers, with bomber gear just far enough below you to make the fall significant. At the end of the boulder problem, snatch a great jug with terrible feet, fire in a small stopper or purple tcu, and make a few more tenuous moves to gain the final 5.11 fingercrack.

Pat Goodman worked on a slightly different version of this line a few years ago via a lower right traverse that would have been much harder (his handholds are the feet of Dead Ráibéad's crux!). However, this route was never led, as the bolt required to avoid a bad fall into a tree was denied by the NPS. At any rate, Dead Ráibéad is a fun, slightly heady but safe power-endurance route that manages to go on completely natural gear after breaking off from the Rabbit.

Oh, and the name comes from the original Gaelic name of the Irish Street gang that was depicted in the movie "Gangs of New York," also known as the Dead Rabbits.

Location 

Same as The Rabbit Almost Died, right at the bottom of the Honeymooners Ladders.

Protection 

Three bolts, tcu's and camalots up to .75 camalot. After getting the gear worked out, I used two 0 tcu's, one .3 camalot, one .5 camalot, and one .75 camalot. Stoppers and ballnuts would work well, too. No top anchor bolts, but it is very easy to set up a TR or rap in off of trees. Although I rapped and scrubbed this route on TR to see if it would go, all attempts at working out moves were made on lead (with a LOT of big falls onto a bomber .3 camalot), and it would be safe for the solid 5.12 trad leader to check out ground-up, unlike the more cryptic Color Blind (13a) next door).


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Jan 17, 2015

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