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Kaleidoscope Wall
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Acrobat's Overhang T 
Dead Reckoning T 
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Technicolor Yawn T 
Treasure Island T 

Dead Reckoning 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines
Season: East facing
Page Views: 30
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Apr 14, 2007

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Mary finishing up the upper section on a cold day.

Description 

The Vogel guide lists this as 5.9 and 3 stars. We felt it was more like 5.8 and 1 star.

Rightmost route on the wall, identified by two bolts in the first half of the route. Clip the first bolt and then head up and right into a small crack. Good gear is available here to protect the crux (5.8+?). Slab up a bit and then clip another bolt and then move left back into another crack (no gear) and then up and right to below a small roof. More gear is available here. Some crack moves lead to yet another traverse - this time to the to the right. You end up on an airy little block and make one last move (5.7/5.8) to gain a blocky trough. Follow this to the top.

The top is covered in loose blocks so be careful! Descend via the fixed anchors down and to the left (3rd class downclimb).

Protection 

2 bolts, one set of cams from TCUs to #2 camalot, and nuts. There are sections with no gear, so be comfortable at the grade.


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By Murf
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Ditto on the rating/stars. Line felt a bit forced.