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Mary finishing up the upper section on a cold day.
The Vogel guide lists this as 5.9 and 3 stars. We felt it was more like 5.8 and 1 star.
Rightmost route on the wall, identified by two bolts in the first half of the route. Clip the first bolt and then head up and right into a small crack. Good gear is available here to protect the crux (5.8+?). Slab up a bit and then clip another bolt and then move left back into another crack (no gear) and then up and right to below a small roof. More gear is available here. Some crack moves lead to yet another traverse - this time to the to the right. You end up on an airy little block and make one last move (5.7/5.8) to gain a blocky trough. Follow this to the top.
The top is covered in loose blocks so be careful! Descend via the fixed anchors down and to the left (3rd class downclimb).
2 bolts, one set of cams from TCUs to #2 camalot, and nuts. There are sections with no gear, so be comfortable at the grade.
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ditto on the rating/stars. Line felt a bit forced.