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Dead Pool 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 2,139
Submitted By: Pete Hickman on May 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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BETA PHOTO: Beth doing Dead Pool. Blue rope is hung for Easy P...

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Starts with a step across over the water on to a two bolt face up to the ledge where the other two routes start. Then somewhat thin climbing the rest of the way past 8 bolts to the top. No real crux unless you think the first move is the crux.


Face just left of the upper pond. Rightmost of the three routes on the face going up the rounded prow.


10 bolts to chains and a set of those anchors they have in the lead area of PRG

Photos of Dead Pool Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber: Linzey Leinart leading Dead Pool
Climber: Linzey Leinart leading Dead Pool
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile view
Profile view
Rock Climbing Photo: Will on leave from Wa enjoying a little Az pocket ...
Will on leave from Wa enjoying a little Az pocket ...

Comments on Dead Pool Add Comment
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By Joey Wilhelm
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 11, 2010

I think the grade on this route may need to be reconsidered; I was out there this past weekend and there was a lot of broken rock in the lower half. The start was certainly more burly than I remember, with one or two holds broken off right at the bottom.
By Cody M
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 3, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Stiff for the grade - broken rock means there are precious few holds around bolt 4 (2 from the ledge). Fun start and good climb above.
Mar 19, 2013

Cold shuts at the top are showing some wear. Be sure to top rope on your own gear.
By Edmund Kao
Apr 24, 2013

If there's water in the pool, I would suggest lowering off the anchors on one of the routes to the left. That was you can avoid the possibility of pulling your rope and having it fall into the water. The traverse between the three anchors is not hard, and you may wish to lower/rappel off of whichever of the anchors seems most stable. (2 out of the three anchors were loose when I was there this weekend.)
By MDoody
Mar 2, 2015

WARNING Cold shuts are now worn over halfway through their diameter. I taped a warning to them, but they should be removed/replaced. The bolts just to the left of the shuts look much more trustworthy.
By Stephane Fitch 1
Nov 3, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

WARNING Moderate-grade climbers please be careful. First, as others have mentioned, the super shuts at the top of this climb are seriously worn and need replacing. Please don't top-rope on them. Also, the difficultly rating on this climb is seriously misleading. Way back when, it may have been a 5.8. But both this route and the one to its left have had some holds snap off over the years. Both routes now have sections on them that I think would rate hard 5.9 or even 5.10.

Having said that, I actually do like this climb. If you've got a partner who leads 5.10 or 5.11 confidently, get him or her to set this up as a top rope for you on your first time out. If you can muddle through the thin crux above about one third of the way up, you're in for a nice long climb.
By Sean Godwin
From: Vancouver, BC
Nov 11, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Came on to post a similar warning, only to see that others have done this already. I visited The Pond today having never been to Queen Creek Canyon. I didn't find the route any harder than a 5.8, but the super shuts at the top were scarily worn out. I rapped off the anchors of the 5.7 just to the left. Seriously, do not use the shuts at the top.
By Clay Lippincott
Jan 27, 2017

The anchors on this route have been replaced by the Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program on December 30th 2016. Enjoy! -- 1/2" Stainless Steel bolts with new hangers and chains.

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