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Drone Wall
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Beeleave S 
Bushy Tailed Wood Rat S 
Dead Finger S 
Drone, The S 
Prestidigitator  S 
Rain Delay S 
Rattler, The S 
Rubber Boa, The S 
short, shitty and sharp S 
Snaked S 
Stinger S 
Tres Hermanos S 
Unknown 5.11d S 

Dead Finger 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Stout, Darren Knezek, Kelly Chamberlain
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Oct 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Drone Wall, middle right. 7. 5.12c 8. Rain Delay ...


Climb up onto the ledge from the ground and clip the first bolt. Using pockets of various sizes (including finger-killing-size) continue up the face. Clip the fourth bolt, figure out how to get past it, and then continue past the fifth bolt to the chains. Some enjoyable movement on this route, and some killer holds.


The third bolted line from the right; located on the side of the crag facing the road.


5 bolts, chain anchors.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Dead finger on right, rain delay on left
Dead finger on right, rain delay on left

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By darrell hodges
Nov 2, 2008

Ha ha.
Good name for this route! If you find the right "hold" then you will lose all feeling in the tip of the ring finger of your right hand.
Also, Doug Stout snapped a finger tendon working this route in the late 90's, rendering the finger dead for awhile.
From: Texas
Aug 13, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm not sure if that ledge about half way up is on or not, but it made for a nice rest and lets you shake out a little before moving into the crux. I thought this was a really fun route that was really well sustained. I liked it a lot.
By Logan Bradford
From: Springville, UT
Aug 23, 2016

I onsight .10C's all the time, and the face of this route is no .10c. If you head up the corner at the beginning and use the massive pocket on the right about half way up, I can conceive it being a 10c, but the face is at least .11a, if not .11b. Every person I've talked to who has climbed this agrees that the rating on this is just straight up wrong.

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