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3. The Mid Section
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Dead Easy 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II ZA: 7 British: MD 2a [details]
FA: Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart Aug. 7, 1973
Page Views: 830
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014

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Tana Cathcart . Tana had only climbed a couple of ...

Description 

Four Stars !? No joke. I've climbed it 10 or 20 times now (From "launch Ledge", soloing to the trees to set up solo-top-ropes) and it continues to impress with the quality and timelessness. If P2 of this climb isn't the best "first Trad Lead" in the state (if not the Northeast), then I don't know what climb could be.

According to Webster's guidebook, this is one of six (6 !) First Ascents made by Paul Ross and Tana Cathcart on Aug 7th 1973, the first exploration of Rainbow! Check out the historic photo posted by Paul!

START From the toe, walk back uphill on the path (towards the Perfect Wave area) and after about 30-40 ft cut back left towards the slab and find a multi-trunked oak tree right at the edge of the slab. Alternatively, climb/scramble to Launch Ledge and then climb the easy friction to the tree island belay at the end of P1.

P1- From the multi-trunked oak, move up and left through the "grey powder-lichen" ( holds brushed in 2014) to cleaner rock. Climb directly up, ending at the left end of the tree island. (Same island as for Livin' Easy.) Belay at the far left of the island at a clump of small trees. 80+/- ft 5.1-5.2

P2- Make the move up just left of the clump of trees, and then follow the steps and dike up. (Lots of gear potential). At the top, move up and left to the double bolt anchor. 110 +/- ft 5.1-5.2

Descend - Rap with 2 x 60 meter ropes to the START, or to "launch ledge", where you can TR both variations of Rhino Skin. It is also possible, (again with 2 x 60m ropes) and a little tension-traversing to rappeller's left, to clip the anchor on L'Anniversaire and thus TR that normally "X" climb as well.

With a single 70m rope it is possible to rap back to the tree-island belay. (This rap may also "go" with a "cut-slightly-long" 60m rope.) From the tree ledge rap to the ground off a 6-inch diameter maple tree with fixed rap rings .

Protection 

Take lots, the pitch "gobbles it up". Beginning trad leaders could practice setting gear on this pitch, winner sets the most!


Photos of Dead Easy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tana Cathcart on Cannon Cliff
Tana Cathcart on Cannon Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: Dead Easy Area
BETA PHOTO: Dead Easy Area
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of P1 of Dead Easy, looking clim...
BETA PHOTO: View from the top of P1 of Dead Easy, looking clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from top of P1 of Dead Easy at multi-...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from top of P1 of Dead Easy at multi-...

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By Mechanicalchris
Oct 11, 2014

A gem

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