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Dead Drunk 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Martinez, John Starr 11-08-06
Page Views: 3,459
Submitted By: Shaun Greene on Jul 13, 2007

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top of Dead Drunk


Most people feel that the crux is between the second and third bolt. After the first three bolts the angle and climbing ease considerably, although, the climbing is still fun after the third bolt. Good, fun route. I felt the route was a bit easier than the rating it has been given. Best of the two routes on the wall. This one starts out very steep and then eases up. It is the leftmost route (northern most route) on the upper ambush wall.


Follow the directions to ambush wall. As you are facing the lower ambush wall walk up and left. You will pass a steep 5.11d on your right as you walk up past the ambush wall. Continue on up the short but steep trail until the upper wall becomes visible on the hikers right. You cant miss the orangish-tan formation of the cliffs.


Standard rack of quickdraws will suffice. Ends at chains. Well protected climbing.

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Rock Climbing Photo: getting over the shelf
getting over the shelf

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By Luke Douglas
Jul 21, 2007

FA Greg Martinez, John Starr 11/08/06
By McRae Williams
Jun 1, 2008

This is a very exciting yet slightly short route. The crux is pulling the first roof and the climbing is mellow and fun after that. I agree that it is a little easier than .10+ but still a great climb.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 9, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

More enjoyable moves on this route for me than Boiler Maker to the right. There is one bolt placement which seems funky; on a jug type hold that sticks out from the surrounding rock. It just seems like the rock it's placed on could break off given a hard lead fall and it appears there are more secure places to sink this bolt. Fun route, enjoyed it!
By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun, but soft rating. Would be a "Gunks" 5.7.
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 24, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun climb on big jugs. Hard to call this a 10+ when there are infinitely harder 10+ climbs in the surrounding crags (the pile, s-curves)
By Laronicus Lehmanold
From: Salt Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Climb the crack on the right of the bolts to 5.9 this climb. If you follow the holds near the bolt line this is a good lead for someone new to 5.10 on lead. One of the bolts was placed in on a rock that looks sketchy- be careful.
By jawshoeuh
From: Sandy, UTAH
Aug 8, 2017

Wasn't sure what to expect on difficulty with Tony Calderone giving this route and Boiler Maker 5.7 and 5.8 in his book. After leading both today I wouldn't rate either any easier or harder than 5.9...but who knows
By Kevin Patterson
From: Wellington, New Zealand
Aug 27, 2017

Generally I would rate this climb on a national basis at 5.10c. It is steep, sustained, and the holds while positive are mostly only good to the second knuckle (i.e. Not juggy). Given the local habit of being about 2 grades harder than national (from the massive sample of 5 I've done so far), a 5.10a grade would be consistent for BCC

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