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Dead By 30 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Alex McIntyre, November 2013
New Route: Yes
Season: Late Fall, Winter, Early Spring
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Nov 30, 2013

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Description 

Dead By 30 begins with a longer than it seems pull to an obvious jug and the first bolt. A hard, thin and insecure sequence or a 6 foot dyno gains the jugs in the ripples and the second bolt. After a rest in the ripples, clip bolt 3 and head up and slightly left through a wild ~V9 crux section involving slopers, an undercling, and a 3 points off dyno to a full pad rounded edge. Carefully clip bolt 4 and encounter a very non-trivial sequence establishing on the slab above. With the last bolt clipped, either walk off up the slab after untying or move a few feet left to use the anchors for Last Supper.

A skilled and implicitly trusted belayer is required to climb this route safely. The fall off of the end of the crux and getting established to clip bolt 4 has the potential to be quite serious. A hard catch might be painful on the vertical wall, but will be necessary to keep the climber off the deck should they fall while clipping. The 3rd bolt is as high as it could reasonably be and it would be nigh impossible to clip in the middle of the crux even if a bolt were added. Be cognizant of the risk and manage it appropriately.

Big thanks to Liam Oden and Alex Kirkpatrick for envisioning and equipping this line. It had been previously scouted by Eric Rhicard (the current last bolt was added as a directional) but passed over as too difficult.

Location 

First line right of Last Supper on the right side of the Beaver Wall.

Protection 

5 bolts. You can either walk up the slab, untie and walk off, or move up and left up easy ground to the Last Supper anchor to lower and retrieve your quickdraws.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 2, 2013

I worked this route a little in the 90's which is why it has the directional bolt on it. I was able to make the big moves up to the finish moves with out too much trouble. I could never stick a throw I was trying to make to a really crappy hold near the top. This is why I gave up. Glad you were able to pull it off.

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