Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Alex McIntyre, November 2013
Page Views: 2,220 total · 18/month
Shared By: Alex McIntyre on Nov 30, 2013
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Dead By 30 begins with a longer than it seems pull to an obvious jug and the first bolt. A hard, thin and insecure sequence or a 6 foot dyno gains the jugs in the ripples and the second bolt. After a rest in the ripples, clip bolt 3 and head up and slightly left through a wild ~V9 crux section involving slopers, an undercling, and a 3 points off dyno to a full pad rounded edge. Carefully clip bolt 4 and encounter a very non-trivial sequence establishing on the slab above. 

A skilled and implicitly trusted belayer is required to climb this route safely. The fall off of the end of the crux and getting established to clip bolt 4 has the potential to be quite serious. A hard catch might be painful on the vertical wall, but will be necessary to keep the climber off the deck should they fall while clipping. The 3rd bolt is as high as it could reasonably be and it would be nigh impossible to clip in the middle of the crux even if a bolt were added. Be cognizant of the risk and manage it appropriately.

Big thanks to Liam Oden and Alex Kirkpatrick for envisioning and equipping this line. It had been previously scouted by Eric Rhicard (the current last bolt was added as a directional) but passed over as too difficult.

Location Suggest change

First line right of Last Supper on the right side of the Beaver Wall.

Protection Suggest change

5 bolts + anchor 

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