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Dead Bees 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Rick McKay & Pat Brennan, April 1981
Page Views: 1,826
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 3, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Dead Bees the 5th bolt is out of the photo.


Located 100' left of Bird of Fire. A fairly fun route that is worth doing, easily accessed via the large ledge at the base of Bird of Fire. This climb originally had 3 bolts but was (in a rare move) retrobolted by the FA party to make it more accessible to climbers at this grade. The remaining bolts were subsequently replaced.


Climb past 5 bolts to anchors (3/8") Walk off or rap from anchors just right of (facing the climb)Bird of Fire

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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We did this sometime back and found it to be well worth the hike. When in the area there are many other routes side by side. Bolted and trad. The Dolphin in particular, for those enjoying "Offwidth" (Me!). Great area!
By Adam Stackhouse
Jun 11, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Tried it early (read '90) and got to the first clip.....runnout then ....Interesting that it has been retrobolted. Looked like a nice climb back then, just too ballsey for me back then...
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jun 12, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Rating this as a 5.10b is way out there in my eyes. A solid 5.9 yes. But that's about it. It is a fun, well bolted route that has some cool moves for sure. But again 10b??? maybe if you are either 12ft 11inches, r 3ft, 1inch???
By Brian Chastain
Jun 20, 2012

First bolt is a little ways up but jugs and easy climbing gets you there safely. I feel the whole climb is easier than 5.9.......say 5.6/7 until the very last move. Anyone saying this is 10b might want to hop on Papa Woolsey to compare. As far as this climb and 5.9 goes, I would call it a one move wonder at the 5.9 grade. Then again, that is how they get the grade, all it takes is one move. None the less, I would say it is worth doing while you are up there.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 11, 2015

FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown, Rick McKay, Pat Brennan 4-81

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