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Dead Battery 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 973
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Aug 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Dead Battery is the left line. Looper is the righ...


A really nice line up a good piece of stone. OK a spot of crumbly rock and lichen up high, but the hard work is done at that point. The overhang at the bottom allows for some harder starts: jump to the first horizontal (dead battery = jump start...get it?), or finger traverse it in from the left. But these feel contrived and don't really add quality to an otherwise continuous, semi-pumpy, well-protected lead.


Start on the blocks 10' L of Looper and step L onto the face at a 1" deep, right angling corner. Once you're established on the face, it's straight up.


Normal rack to 2 or 3", but mostly it's cams up to 1" in the horizontals. Gear anchor on the ledge at the top.

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