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Dead Again 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Dianne Barrow, 2001
Page Views: 4,433
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Jul 22, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (203)
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BETA PHOTO: Dead Again. The committing crux is from the third...

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  • Description 

    Start in the middle of The Wall of the Dead. Climb up the face to an overlap, move left, and continue up to the anchors. It has some committing moves through the crux section passing the overlap.

    I found this to be a fun, interesting, well bolted climb that I would certainly do again.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to anchors with rings.


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    Mike Amato contemplates the committing crux moves ...

    Comments on Dead Again Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 29, 2014
    By Michael Walker
    From: Loveland, CO
    Jul 22, 2002

    A fun route with strenuous laybacks and precise footwork needed through the start. I thought it was as hard as Tomb, and like that route, had good climbing right to the (too short!) end.
    By Bruce Pech
    Jun 3, 2004
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    Dead Again is the next bolted line left of Dead Can Dance. Although Rossiter rates it .10d, it's not as hard as the other .10d's and .10c's at Avalon, but harder than Slayer -- .10b -- on the First Tier. How 'bout .10b/c?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 11, 2005

    I felt this route is easily .10c and probably .10d. I've done many other 10cs and 10ds at Avalon, and I felt it was right on par with those routes. It felt much more difficult than Marquis de Sade on the other side of the crag, which is 10c. It might have been more difficult for me because I'm only 5'4''. Either way, I felt it was a good route.
    By Darren O'Connor
    Jul 14, 2005
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    At 5.10 and under, this is the funnest route I've done at this area. Safe bolting makes it enjoyable for those challenged at the grade. .10a seems a little low. Rossiter's .10d rating was almost enough to scare me off--don't let it stop you!
    By Ernie Port
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Aug 18, 2005
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    The crux move up in the middle felt a bit harder than anything on its neighbor Isle of the Dead. Fun moves moving out and up from the undercling to the flake.
    By Kyle Turner
    From: Brighton, CO
    Sep 26, 2006
    rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    I'd give the *crux* of this route a 10c rating when compared to other routes in the canyon. The top and bottom of the route seemed easier... all in all this a great route with solid moves on positive holds. Good route for the aspiring 10+ leader.

    -KT
    By dr.natalie
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 27, 2008

    Good warmup. Slabby crux. Smear feet.
    By Meredith DB
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 12, 2009

    This climb currently has a couple spinner bolts.
    By Hiro Kurotsuchi
    From: Colorado
    Apr 29, 2012

    Harder than Isle of the Dead next door, whether they are 10abc, I dunno. If your limit is in the 10-range, climb Isle of the Dead first, then if you want more with a more difficult crux, climb this.

    Has a fun hand crack half way up, always fun to put those crack skills to use... I'd definitely climb it again next time I'm in the area.
    By drdeleo
    Jun 2, 2013

    One of the anchors is missing the anchor hanger and nut. The bolt appears to be ok. I found the nut on the ground and picked it up before noticing the anchor hanger was missing. Would be nice if someone could replace it. The anchor on the left of this climb also has a loose nut. I hand tightened it, but it needs tightening with a wrench.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 2, 2013

    Today, Ron Olsen and I replaced the Fixe ring hanger missing from one of the anchor bolts. Double thanks to Ron for supplying the hardware.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 2, 2013

    The missing Fixe ring hanger at the anchor is actually on the route just right of Isle of the Dead called "Dead Again." Ron Olsen and I replaced the missing Fixe ring hanger on "Dead Again". I also tightened down the two anchor bolts on this route.
    By C.jake
    Jun 26, 2014

    Climbed this route today, SO MUCH FUN. There's never a point where you are up shit creek on this route, it's such a blast. I think one bolt had some movement. I would totally give this a 10c simply because of some fancy footwork and knowledge of undercling/flake climbing at the cruxy parts.
    By Chris Wiggins
    Nov 29, 2014

    Very fun climb on great rock with some good underclings and sidepulls. Steady footwork on slopey stone will get you through the crux. Well-protected.

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