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Skip and Sandy Boulder
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Deacon Variation 
Devastating Reverend Tom, The 
Empire of Dirt 
Skip and Sandy 
Under Wicked Skies 
Wicked Deacon 

Deacon Variation 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 741
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Feb 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Deacon Variation, with start holds and line of tra...


This is what The Devastating Reverend Tom (V10) would be if the arete was not off...

Start on the two poor sidepulls as for Devastating, and make the first move, then instead of firing to the small ear make a big move out to the slopey jug on the arete. Then top out as for Skip and Sandy.


on the Skip and Sandy Boulder start on the two sidepulls as for The Devastating Reverend Tom.


Pad and spotter

Photos of Deacon Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The small right hand starting crimp... it is wicke...
The small right hand starting crimp... it is wicke...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 3, 2016
By Zane Dordai
Jul 14, 2013
rating: V7+ 7A+

Definitely feels at least a grade harder than smoke and mirrors, which feels spot on. agree with the height dependence, but the move to the arete is hard. v7 to me...maybe v6+ when its freezing cold.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Jul 30, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

I have to agree with you Zane. Ape index/height makes a massive difference on this problem. Hitting the arete is at the absolute maximum of my reach from the better feet, and I would have a hard time calling this anything easier than v7 for myself.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 31, 2013

Hey guys I changed my suggested grade to v7. After thinking about other v6's in the area (Smoke and Mirrors, Knock Your Block Off, etc.) I agree this rig is significantly harder than those.

I have a hard time suggesting grades when I climb something that I little to no prior knowledge of. I always shy towards sandbagging because to me it is better to have under graded problems than inflated problems. I like when the consensus develops though and we can get a settled grade.

You guys should go try Twisted Sister and Under The Bed and see what you guys think the grade are on those, both have had some discussion between myself and friends if they are v6 or v7. I would like to get some others opinions as well on those, plus they are both real good boulder problems.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 28, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

Well, I climbed this again today and came up with much better beta (for me at least) that made it feel easier than it had previously. I still have to dyno to the hold on the arete (right hand stays on, both feet cut) since that's the only way that I can stick it, but with my new beta I can basically do it every try.

I still feel that it's fair calling this v7 (compared to other problems at Rumney). Shorter folks will probably find it on the upper end of the grade, while taller folks will probably find it a bit easier.

This climb has really grown on me. Excellent technical and powerful climbing. One of the better lines at The Pound.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Apr 12, 2014
rating: V7+ 7A+

Did this today. Felt real tough but did it quick so maybe I'd agree with v7? Very very fun consolation prize, dyno is not to be missed! edit to add more spray: I feel like if v7 is your limit the first move is harrrrrrrrd, and the topout isn't necessarily a gimme, I dunno about grades but it's good, very worthwhile. More people should chime in.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Nov 7, 2015
rating: V7+ 7A+

This is really cool, I ended up sticking the dyno on my fourth try (while it was wet!). Super cool move that was a deadpoint for me, I can see it being really hard for anyone with a wingspan under 5'8", mines 5'10" and I had maybe a couple inches to spare, 5'8" would probably be iron crossed. I just gotta do the first move now, so I can't wait to go back and finish it off!
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
May 13, 2016
rating: V7+ 7A+

Finally put this thing down today after 7 sessions and probably close to 200 attempts. Stuck the first move for the first time yesterday, went back today and got it done! It was so good I did it again right afterwards! This is a must do for anyone climbing around v7 or harder if you're at the Pound.

Ian you are completely right about that first move being really hard if v7 is your limit (it's my limit right now). I discovered that that first move really just boils down to "don't be a bitch, squeeze hard and throw." Also the first move (yes first move, not the dyno) is pretty reachy for me from the feet I was using, but I just had to stand up on my right leg and turn my hip outwards.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
May 13, 2016
rating: V7+ 7A+

Nice man, was playing around on reverend tom with a few friends last weekend at the end of the day and the consensus was "being on the wall is easier than getting on the wall" for the first move.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 15, 2016

Nice work Jake!!!
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
May 16, 2016
rating: V7+ 7A+

Thanks Matt and Ian! Yeah Ian you are so right about getting on the wall haha.

Here's a video I made of the climb:
By campbellness
Oct 3, 2016
Got a link to a video of this thang and a few other climbs up at yellow jacket. Its also linked to the PSU rock climbing page. Check it out!

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