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Bolt Slab
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Chimney Route T,TR 
Dance of the Pregnant Wildebeest T,TR 
Dazed and Refused T 
Double Jam T,TR 
Meadow Muffin S,TR 
Sky Hook T 
Two to Tango T,TR 
Two-Nut Muffin T 

Dazed and Refused 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FFA: Jeff Pedersen (Yo Yo Style) FFA to upper anchors: Bart Dahnke
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: Erik S. Gillis on Oct 11, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Awesome route. Fight through the first 15-20 feet of hard overhanging finger locks. Pro during this section is important because if not done properly a ground fall is possible. After the first section enjoy some easy, but overhanging, face climbing until you get to the anchors. It is possible to continue from there, or so i have heard, at 5-10a with gear. I have not tried it yet.


The first crack on the north facing side of bolt slab when you come around the corner from Meadow Muffin.


a set of C3s, small to medium stoppers, and i used one orange metolius master cam. Also you will need one draw for the pin at the top. An medium sized off-set cam might be nice too.

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By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 13, 2009

One more quick important note Darren wanted me to mention, the far left arete is off for anything. Especially to place gear from, gear is probably the hardest part about this route.
By emonie
Mar 27, 2016

so the team in charge of this internet portal would rather maintain their idea of how the route should go by warning climbers of what i assume are perfectly good placements "off route"?

this ain't the gym.. it's not bouldering.. I can't believe i'm even commenting here but i couldn't believe what I had read either..
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Mar 27, 2016

"The team in charge" would rather respect the history of the route.

Climb the crack however you want.

However, if you want to climb the .11d named Dazed and Refused as established by Pedersen and Dahneke, then you'll need to artificially avoid the eliminates.

In antediluvian Rock Canyon a number of routes were established with rules to make the routes harder. This was done in those days because the climbers were looking to push themselves into harder grades that the local rock didn't otherwise offer.
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 9, 2016

I was referring to not using holds on the arete to place gear from or climb on, not placing gear on the arete. Good luck finding gear placements anywhere other than the crack; it has been a while since I have been on it, but I don't remember finding other gear. Sorry that my original statement was confusing.

Also I wouldn't recommend climbing this route if you were coming straight out of the gym anyway, it requires some real thought and technical knowledge of gear placement or a ground fall would be probable.

Thanks Perin, I totally agree. Like so many other routes in Rock Canyon this one has some real history! My dad was one of the first people to project it in the late 70's, so it was really significant to me when I sent it.

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