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Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand
Page Views: 8,304
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Apr 26, 2001

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Sean K. making it look easy.

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  • Description 

    It's pretty much a one-move-wonder, but this 12a is fun anyways. 20 feet of easy climbing leads to 2 seams that offer a fun sequence of sidepulls and foot smears. The roof above the crux pulls out onto a slab that puts the anchors within reach.


    Draws for 6 bolts, a fixed nut, and a 2 bolt anchor.

    Photos of Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: David enjoying the crux moves.
    David enjoying the crux moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Post crux.
    Post crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux.
    Starting the crux.

    Comments on Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 6, 2016
    By Chris Archer
    Oct 27, 2003
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Terrific route involving a semi hidden hold at the crux. I thought Bob called it "Days of Future Passed."
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 27, 2003

    Actually I wanted to call it "Days of Future Past" after a Moody Blues song. This was around the same time we did "Piles of Trials" which was from a Moody Blues refrain: Face Piles of Trials with Smiles. This was because my ACL exploded at the base of the climb and I had to come out of the hospital for the FA. For historical information, FA 9 Feb 1996.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 26, 2004

    I thought the crux on this was desperate and thin. The climbing above and below was more fun. Good route. Isn't there a piece of fixed gear on this thing?
    By SirVato
    From: Boulder
    Jun 7, 2006
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    This was a pretty sweet route!! A good candidate for a 1st lead @ the grade. I don't really down grade routes but. . . I've had harder times on a few 11+s than I did with this. What do I know this was my first 12 lead. The moves are awesome though!!

    GEAR ALERT- as of 6-6-06 almost EVERY bolt was a spinner!! I'll try to get back for the red point this week so, while I'm there I'll wrench on those bolts.
    Also, the fixed nut is not too good looking - the cable has separated from the nut itself (more like a cable wrapped around chock). The moves to the next bolt aren't too hard or far.
    By Chris O'Connor
    From: boulder, co
    Sep 11, 2006
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Fun but short crux. Definitely easier than Feeding The Beast right around the corner.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 15, 2007

    The fixed nut is questionable. Bring some small stoppers or a small cam to back this up if you are worried clipping the bolt at the crux. I couldn't figure out how to transfer my weight onto the hold at the bolt at the crux move. After that you are pretty much done.
    By David A. Turner
    Apr 22, 2008
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Gear alert. The fixed nut is missing. As we had no gear besides quickdraws with us, and unwilling to commit without that bit of gear, we traversed from the top of Free Willie, to the anchors on Days, hung the draws, including extended slings off the crux bolt.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 22, 2008

    I had noticed the nut was missing yesterday. I just replaced it with a new one about 2 months ago because the one that had been there since we put the route in looked real bad. I guess I did not smash it in hard enough. Too bad people have to steal things. Maybe we will put another bolt in there.
    By Greg Hand
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 24, 2008

    We placed a bolt where the fixed nut had historically been.
    Also replaced the bolt below this one as it was a spinner that could not be tightened.
    By Doug Lintz
    From: Kearney, NE
    Oct 20, 2008

    This is a fun route, there are at least half a dozen sequences for the crux section.
    By chipacles
    Sep 1, 2010
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Don't know why, but I couldn't figure the crux out. Then watched my girlfriend do it. Went back up and sent it, no problem. Just gotta find the right sequence through the crux.

    Pretty fun stuff.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Sep 21, 2010

    I really enjoy this route. There are some 5.10 moves getting to the crux. The crux is sequency and challenging, and then there is a nice bold overhanging section to the anchors.

    Super beta: the crux comes after clipping bolt 5, starting from the iron cross position. The next placement of the right foot is key--don't put it on the good hold, but rather on a poorer hold right below. Now cross the left foot through and put it on the good foothold, laybacking against the right hand. Position the left hand high in the crack, get the right foot on the good edge up and to the right, and crank a Gaston with the left hand, standing high and reaching for the obvious chalked horn right of bolt 6. Don't bother with any intermediates for the right hand--just go straight to the horn.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    May 27, 2011
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    It feels really difficult until you figure out the move. Then its relatively easy. So like 12+ OS, 11+ RP.
    By germsauce Epstein
    Apr 14, 2012

    Is the chalky rail system about 3-4 feet left of the bolts (and the crack just left of the bolt line) on, or are you only supposed to use the thin crack just next to the bolts? I either really lucked out with the sequence or used a whole slew of holds that weren't on.
    By Dave Alie
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 17, 2014
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    Likely easier for folks with bigger hands; I got a reasonable lock at the crux which made the moves easier than for those who have to hold a gaston. Either way, the business is so short, I'm not sure it earns the 12-.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 9, 2015
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I'm going to give my opinion, and I may come off as a MP mean man, but I'm just going to lay out what I think. I think this route is really in the 11b/c region. I think that Reefer Madness has a similar crux in Clear Creek. This may be a little harder because you have to figure it out, but it is not bad at all. I think the person that put 12+ onsight is a little off. This thing is totally onsight-able, and I have seen friends do that very easily. Try Animal Riots Activist right around the corner or Wet Dream at Wall of '90's or Hot Beach at Shelf if you want some comparisons for this to 12a's! I would even say that Strange Science (11d) and The Devil (11d), both at Avalon, are harder than this line! That's just my opinion...take it or leave it!
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Feb 17, 2015
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    Hey Train4life, I will respectfully disagree with you. Could have been my personal experience with the climb, but the one move on this merits the 12a rating in my opinion. My beta involved a horrible left foot and a left hand cross to a small crystal crimp that you needed to lean in on to reach a good right hand. For me, when I compare this sequence to every other classic 12- in Boulder Canyon, it holds its grade. I'm comparing to routes like Empire of the Fenceless, Lucky Strikes, The Good The Bad and The Jacked, Prince of Thieves.
    Maybe I'm missing something super obvious at the crux, not sure. This climb took me ten tries when I was consistently climbing 12 - on my second go. Maybe it's 5.11 but my complete, anti-style, nemesis route.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 21, 2015
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Jack Sparrow, I appreciate your comment, very respectable. I will respectfully disagree with your disagreement. I think you should try Animal Riots Activist and some solid 12a's like the ones I mentioned and see if this meets up with it. Try Tits Up at Shelf for a 12b comparison or The Constant Gardner or Joy Ride 12b for comparisons. I thought Empire was a bit soft for 12a, since it basically has one move even relatively close to 12a.
    By A-Train
    Feb 22, 2015

    Train4Life, please tell me you were joking when you said, "this is a Yosemite move right here." Debating whether a route is 5.11 or 12- is silly enough (is there really a difference?), but calling something a "Yosemite move" is just too good!
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Feb 24, 2015
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    So I've redpointed Wet Dream, Animal Riots Activist, The Devil, and Strange Science. I still think all those routes were easier for me as they took me between 2 and 5 tries, compared to ten on this. Been on constant Gardner, it feels harder than this, same with Joy Ride. It's probably not 12b, but I don't think it's 5.11 on the Boulder Canyon grading scale. Like I said, could just be a nemesis route for me, but I have a hard time taking 11b/c. Regardless of the grade, it's a great piece of stone with quality climbing the whole way.
    By Train4life
    From: Boulder, CO
    Feb 28, 2015
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    That is so interesting, Jack Sparrow, I would love to see how you climb this! I'm honestly really curious now. I thought every route you just named were grades harder, actually the route to the right of DofFP, Threshold of a Dream, was harder...interesting how one can see a route so differently per climber. Well, hope to see you around someday, Jack Sparrow!
    By two chains
    From: Fucken Zion
    Jun 6, 2016
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

    D'Antonio and Hand must have old man climbing syndrome to call this a 12a (no wonder he doesn't put FAs in his books).

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