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Day of Atonement T 
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Freak Freely T 
Happy Crack T 
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Lion of Judah (aka Sugar and Spice) T 
Lonesome Winner, The T 
Naughty and Nice T 
Oracle T 
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Wushu Roof T 

Day of Atonement 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson 1985, FA complete extension to the top Joseph Healy 6/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 19, 2010  with updates from Topher Dabrowski

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Naughty & Nice, Lion of Judah, Day of Atonement, H...

Description 

First route here! Jim and Mike climbed the beautiful hand crack to the ledge where they lowered off a piton equalized with a tree (now gone). Ryan Sund pushed the route further up the face, split by a small seam and drilled an anchor. Joseph Healy pushed the route to the top of the cliff past the crux and moved the anchor to the top. Start up the hand crack and continue straight up until gaining the ledge with the piton. From there head up the thin crack and then left and up the right facing dihedral and wide slot to the anchor.

Protection 

Gear to 3” - include some small stuff like Ballnuts or a 0 Metolius if doing the straight up variation to top out.


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By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jun 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Led this thing yesterday. Probably my favorite route at Farside thus far. The face towards the top is great, and the direct finish, although dirty, is pretty challenging as well. I don't think particularly small gear is needed (or the PG rating).
By Chris-Bailey
From: Olympia, WA
Sep 9, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Great line, favorite of the climbs I've done here so far. The direct finish is challenging, but takes gear okay and has some really fun movements on it. Climbed in with a rack of .3-2 C4 and a single set of nuts. Never felt unsafe, but small cams definitely would have made it more secure.
By Healyje
From: PDX
Apr 24, 2016

A #4 ballnut is bomb in the thin crack.
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 15, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sweet first 2/3. Crux is a bit awkward and tricky. Not real well protected. But, the thin nut held the fall well!
By Healyje
From: PDX
May 11, 2017

I would more describe the cruxes on both Atonement and Hollow Victory more as technical with limited solution sequences - both cruxes are quite elegant in terms of movement, unless you deviate from those specific technical sequences, in which case they would become both harder and somewhat awkward.

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