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BETA PHOTO: PCT Cliff - middle
This route climbs a series of broken and horizontal cracks on the wall to the right of the PCT Crack area. In the new guidebook its described as a zigzaging crack, but its really linking horizontals from faceholds. As we climbed it we went straight up through a couple of cruxy areas and then left to the finger crack leading over the top. Its consistently steep and every move felt about 5.9. I thought it was hard for the grade and could be 10-.
The route starts on positive face holds and heads into a left facing / left leaning dihedral. There are bolts on the slab about 6' back from the lip of the climb with new chains.
Good selection of nuts and cams from 00 to #3. Doubles in the finger to hand range are helpful.
BETA PHOTO: The route is visible here. Start on face holds be...
You can see both the route Day Hike and the rap an...
By Patrick Mulligan
Jul 29, 2013
The bolts at the top of this climb are a prime example of galvanic corrosion and were obviously placed just below a water streak. I wouldn't rap off them (although I think they were new last year) and walked left to the stainless anchors at the top of helping hands.
After climbing this again I've bumped it to 3 stars. Its a unique and worthy climb.
By Laine Christman
From: Reno, NV
Aug 5, 2014
See the PCT - middle topo for location details.
By Patrick Mulligan
Aug 25, 2014
The anchors to the climb have been replaced. However, they've been moved about 15 feet up and to the right. The prior anchors were severely rusted (had started to flake) and were in an obvious water streak. You can place a directional in the strata above the old anchors and walk right to the new rap anchor.
I could not countersink and patch the old bolts but will come back with a hacksaw and patch the holes at a later time.