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Lonely Boulders
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Another Day Dream 
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Day Dream Arete 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,417
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Oct 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: The line-

Description 

Start with both hands on the arete in low, good holds. Work up the arete via gaston and left face crimps to jug right on the arete. Go left onto the face to finish up. An interesting inside heel hook adds the extra core tension to surf out onto the little holds.

Another good variation is to work further left on the face after you hit the good jug. Adds a nice horzontal dyno.

Location 

Day Dream boulder.

Protection 

pad


Photos of Day Dream Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John K. crimpin' away
John K. crimpin' away
Rock Climbing Photo: Day Dream Arete V5
BETA PHOTO: Day Dream Arete V5

Comments on Day Dream Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Dec 14, 2008
rating: V5 6C

This is a great problem. The hard moves are low to the ground, so the top out is not bad.
By Mr. Mix
From: Sauk City, WI
Apr 2, 2011

One of the key holds broke off on this problem (in John's right hand in the picture). I used the small starting holds on arete to a dyno right hand on jug. The problem may be a bit more difficult now.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 19, 2011
rating: V5 6C

Man mike, you're on a hold breaking spree!
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 11, 2011

In its current state this problem felt about as hard as The Loner for me, and definitely harder than Only the Lonely. If it matters, I went to the start holds to a left hand crimp on the face, then dynoed to the good hold on the arete.

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