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El Capitan
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Zenyatta Mondatta 
Zodiac 

Dawn Wall Free 

YDS: 5.14c French: 8c+ Ewbanks: 34 UIAA: XI- ZA: 35 British: E9 7b

   
Type:  Trad, 32 pitches, 2500', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.14c French: 8c+ Ewbanks: 34 UIAA: XI- ZA: 35 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson, January 2015
Season: Winter (often in the sun)
Page Views: 17,231
Submitted By: Brian S on Jan 16, 2015  with updates from James Leavy

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Topo of Dawn Wall on El Capitan

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the hardest big wall free climbs in the world. Stacked pitches of 13s and 14s.

Protection 

Full big wall rack. Beaks required.


Photos of Dawn Wall Free Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dawn Wall on El Capitan
Dawn Wall on El Capitan

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 2, 2016
By Brian S
Jan 16, 2015

Interactive 3D topo
By limpingcrab
From: Visalia, CA
Jan 16, 2015

Grade V? Already getting downgraded, I like it!

Post a little more beta and I'm there
By karl schmidt
From: Idyllwild, CA
Jan 28, 2015

Lol how can you 4 star it if you've never climbed it. That'd be like judging a taste test contest from looks alone lol
By benson87
From: Portland
Jan 29, 2015

I very much agree with you Karl. Just because it was an awesome accomplishment doesn't mean anyone can star. Maybe you should do the first repeat Brian S. Also, isn't this technically a free climb of the route Mescalito on the Dawn Wall and therefore should be placed there? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
Feb 5, 2015

Karl and Benson, FYI what you're seeing is a technical requirement of Mountain Project routes. The submitter is prompted to choose a star rating before saving it.

On the other hand, a route that pushes the limits of worldwide climbing difficulty in this way will certainly be considered classic, at least for the first decade or two (ha).
By Jacek Czyz
From: Chicago, Summit CO; PL
Feb 14, 2015
rating: Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c

Dawn Wall aka Wall of the Early Morning Light still is aid route. What Tommy and Kevin did is Dawn Wall Free or Mescalito Free or similar.
By Jim Beyer
Mar 3, 2015

Fixing ropes top to bottom on El Cap is really bad style.Bolting on rappel , drilling cracks for drilled angles, chipping holds,working top down,leaving ropes and portaledges fixed for three months every year for how many years? -all of these things are really bad style and should not be tolerated on El Cap or on any Yosemite Big Wall.El Cap deserves more respect.Top down climbing is for posers.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b

14+ is a stretch. i thought the crux was 14c at the hardest. cool route though.
By FrankPS
From: Atascadero, CA
Jul 5, 2015

Yeah, 14+ is grade-inflation. And I thought it might get dark out before I finished.
By Hanson Smith
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 22, 2015

Jim Beyer, as far as I have heard there was no chipping or drilling cracks. Fixing the wall and spending months up there every year for years was what was required to push big wall free standards to the next level. Now the route stands proud, with minimal trace left by Mr. Caldwell and Mr. Jorgeson. Can the same be said for your routes? Is drilling a trench for a head in the Fishers good style? Is purposeful ambiguity about the tactics used in a first ascent good style?

mountainproject.com/v/intifada...
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Alabama
Sep 4, 2015

I love that this already has 4 stars and there is already an argument about grade inflation. Excellent job Mountain Project Community!
By Russ Keane
Oct 19, 2015

"minimal trace left by Mr. Caldwell and Mr. Jorgeson"

Precisely how many bolts were added to this route, in order to go free? Also my other question is, could this be climbed from the bottom, in one continuous push, without falls. In other words, if you take a lead fall, or use aid or whatever, you go back to the very bottom and start over.
By Matthew Silverman
Feb 2, 2016

Russ Keane, 35 bolts were added to this route the Majority to replace old ones. They specifically placed beaks instead of bolts to keep the integrity of the route, at the cost of future flash attempts.